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skin

Hz Speeds

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Allo

Been fiddling with my tatt machines and was just wondering should i be aiming for the correct Hz loaded with the needle, Band etc?

My shader runs at 110-112hz unloaded then 95hz loaded at 5.5v

Liner is 130-132hz unloaded then 110-112hz loaded at 6v

This the norm?

Should i be aiming for 'typical' machine speeds with it loaded or unloaded cuz i gotta say, Getting my liner to 130hz loaded is a fuckin noisy nightmare

lemme know

peace

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it doesnt have to be spot on on the Hz as long as there is enough power for that grouping Hz reading is good but you also gotta tune to your ear and your thumb my liner rus like that but runs perfect

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Allo

Been fiddling with my tatt machines and was just wondering should i be aiming for the correct Hz loaded with the needle, Band etc?

My shader runs at 110-112hz unloaded then 95hz loaded at 5.5v

Liner is 130-132hz unloaded then 110-112hz loaded at 6v

This the norm?

Should i be aiming for 'typical' machine speeds with it loaded or unloaded cuz i gotta say, Getting my liner to 130hz loaded is a fuckin noisy nightmare

lemme know

peace

tune it loaded

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yup wet run some water in the tip

To closely simulate ink weight?

Figured I'd ask instead of assuming...

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im gonna put this up, i cant remeber who wrote it but i liked it so much i saved it aside it may help you a bit:

Everything you do will drop the Hz a little, the machines run faster unloaded than they do with the needle on the a-bar and tube installed, then the Hz will come back up just a little when ink is in the reservoir. this is the real Hz reading then it'll slow down a few more Hz when it hits skin but good luck reading it while tattooing...

Set the voltage to get the hit you want (do this by feel on the a-bar with your finger and use the reading for reference). Hz may go up or down while setting voltage, just keep it close to your hand speed.

Check your follow thru and adjust your contact screw or change the angle of the contact screw to the timing spring (very small adjustment is usually all it takes) and get this number to 0

The contact screw adjustment also controls speed and duty cycle so fine tune that and try to keep the follow thru at zero.

114 Hz is a good number for packing color or lining depending on your hand speed, I like my liner to move at 134 hz and my color packer to run at 116.

The shader you'll probably want it to run around 90 to 95 hz.

For duty cycle, anywhere between 45 and 55% should work.

Play with the settings by sight, sound and feel, maybe a few runs on piggy skin to make sure everything feels right for your hand speed then record your numbers when everything feels just right. You'll see how slight adjustments, different needle setups etc can change the way your machine runs, a lot can change just by going up or down just 1/10 of a volt or just slightly adjusting the contact screw or just barely tweaking the contact angle.

my cyclone im pretty sure gives me wrong readings is that possible? my liner runs real nicely at 100hz loaded, shader at 85, i had to put some real hard springs and tweak emto hell to get em anywhere near the "normal" range, i decided it was probably faulty and 15-20hz out or so, i dont have a multimeter with HZ readings to check it and as they go for 70 bucks not really worth buying.

Edited by PainT

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yeah my liner is good fo me but fuck me if i tightened it up to run at 130hz loaded it'll kill it i reckon!

so atm its tuned a 130hz unloaded and running a lot lower loaded but i figure fuck it.

Same goes for shader

reminds me...my colour packer should be here tomo :blink:

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.....

nice input, you do that alot why? i always respect what you gotta say dude, but you got some pointless posts to :blink:

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im gonna put this up, i cant remeber who wrote it but i liked it so much i saved it aside it may help you a bit:

my cyclone im pretty sure gives me wrong readings is that possible? my liner runs real nicely at 100hz loaded, shader at 85, i had to put some real hard springs and tweak emto hell to get em anywhere near the "normal" range, i decided it was probably faulty and 15-20hz out or so, i dont have a multimeter with HZ readings to check it and as they go for 70 bucks not really worth buying.

Check out Matco tools, they sell a bad ass meter for like 30 dollars. I had one before I got my ems.

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....pointless :) seriously man, i'm always there if i can help someone,but a bit tired of reading the same questions over and over again...

There's loads and loads of good info on this site (and others) ,just gotta dig a little, you know what i mean?

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....pointless ;) seriously man, i'm always there if i can help someone,but a bit tired of reading the same questions over and over again...

There's loads and loads of good info on this site (and others) ,just gotta dig a little, you know what i mean?

Here we go ;) ......

I dig... try typing in hz in the search filter and see what ya get

even try 'hz running loaded or unloaded'

you must be getting tired of writing the same old one worded/emoticon replies eh?

Not trying to sound a cunt

Edited by skin

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....pointless :) seriously man, i'm always there if i can help someone,but a bit tired of reading the same questions over and over again...

There's loads and loads of good info on this site (and others) ,just gotta dig a little, you know what i mean?

lol all good dude, as i said i respect what you gotta say when you say it, i know what ya mean, i just dont bother posting to thoes questions at times, and for thoes searching the forum such as for this, the search function on this site sucks, sorry jason but it really bites balls, heres a beter way to search this site:

go to google type in your search with "site:ink-trails.com" eg, HZ settings site:ink-trails.com

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If it works for you its fine obviously you need to adjust your hand speed to the speed of the machine. I run all my machines at around 100Hz but im OCD like that, I dont like having a liner run at 160hz and a shader/packer at 110 or what ever.

I just tune them all 100Hz long stroke big needles eg shovel mag, med stroke medium needles 9mag and short stroke small liners...

then change my hand speed and volts to suite what ever Im doing...

Oh yeah and NO digital read out when tattooing just 10 turn basic power supply. and a digital multimeter when Im tuning them up but fuck the numbers in the studio...

Keep it simple

Edited by rambo

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To closely simulate ink weight?

Figured I'd ask instead of assuming...

Nah I think thats to lube the needle running it dry will create some friction so your Hz reading will be lower or your machine will have to work harder... thats what I was told any way I dont think ink weight will make any difference... UNless its china man fake lead ink.... but we all know dont buy from the china man :)

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