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Shader Versus Liner Set-up

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#1
Supreme

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Spaulding Mfg states in their machine set-up info that the only difference between a SHADER or a LINER machine is the POINT GAP (aka nickel versus a dime width) and it's not spring length or tension.


Does anyone out there agree or disagree with this?

I was always under the impression that front spring shape/length made one of the differences between each.

Am I wrong is thinking this?

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#2
matttatt

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difrent strokes for difrent folks.

my liners are set up compltely difrent then my shaders.

you can even get frames made specific for what you want them to do.

personaly i would disagree with spauldings statement.

oh ya P.S look at eikons download page and they go thru alot of the tech info on what minor adjustments of one to any of the machine parts and the effects it has on machine performance.

Edited by matttatt, 27 September 2007 - 03:17 PM.


#3
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i think spring tension is different for liners and shader/color machines, but i guess this is an optional fine tuning thing. i might be wrong thou, but this is how i have read stuff.

#4
vonchuck

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HI supreme spaulding uses the same springs on almost all there machines
yes thay set up liner at a dime gap on the points and a nickel gap on a shader but when it comes to back spring tension thay use 25 grams on the liner and 50 grams on a shader. Iv'e used their machines for a lot of years but there not stock if you try to tweek them to much the coils will hot (hot enough to blister your hand) they have some nice frames but their coils and nickel plated springs suck if you try to run them to hard the springs will crack and coils will over heat.

#5
Supreme

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View Postvonchuck, on Sep 27 2007, 08:20 PM, said:

HI supreme spaulding uses the same springs on almost all there machines
yes thay set up liner at a dime gap on the points and a nickel gap on a shader but when it comes to back spring tension thay use 25 grams on the liner and 50 grams on a shader. Iv'e used their machines for a lot of years but there not stock if you try to tweek them to much the coils will hot (hot enough to blister your hand) they have some nice frames but their coils and nickel plated springs suck if you try to run them to hard the springs will crack and coils will over heat.


Does anyone know what 25 grams equates to on springs - like a .18, .20, etc ?
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#6
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the nicke/dime rule is really more a general guideline....you want a shader to hit softer. you can also turn down the guice on your power supply...it takes lots of tinkering to find out what works for you. there is more than 1 way to skin a cat.

#7
guitarmad

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whats the sizs again , linin 1.5 mil shadin ? help me ?

#8
*gnarly-d*

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I recently got a pair of Custom Machines and the Contact Screw Angles on them were different to what i normally get (the Liner Contact Screw was set as if it was a Shader and the Shader was set as if it was a Liner). I'm guessing this ok as the Machines run perfect? They were just set-up Vice Versa.
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#9
mark101

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disagree thar book was written years ago technology has changed since then


springs have a lot to do with altering the way a machine runs

also disagree with the nickle dime theory
i have built machines that run with almost 1/4" gap


all the nickle dime theory will do is gt you into the ballpark
every machine has different make up to it even 2 machines built the same will react differently to each other for numerous reasons

Edited by mark101, 28 September 2007 - 06:16 AM.


#10
Below The Skin

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I use soft springs for shading and hard springs for lining
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#11
Get.Inked.Tattoo's

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Matt Makes a good point about Eikon, actually I am going to follow their set-up examples that they use for their "Green Monster" machines. They break everything down to specific's for each individule machine for instance a Shader would have a Medium weight A-Bar with a 47uf Capasitor and .17Timing spring and a .16Main spring, where as their color packer has a HEAVY A-Bar, a 33uf Cap, .16Timing, .15Main spring........ See, I really like that EACH Machine is completely different from the next, and when you think about it, it makes PERFECT sense!!! Ya' Know, A heavy A-bar with thinner springs will produce more of a feathery effect, where as for instance on their liner a thicker and shorter spring set up with a LIGHT A-Bar would be snappy and fast. It all makes perfect sense to me in that way. I can't wait to set these new machines up with the proper parts to see if this formula holds true!!!!! I will definatly keep posted!!!
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