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Nippyneedle

Are Rotaries "better" Or "easier"

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I bought a cheap Swashdrive copy a couple of months ago and love it! It puts in colour like no coil I own, although I haven't lined with it yet.... been in hospital for a couple of weeks with heart problems and vertigo, so it may be a while before I get back into tattooing sad.png

Copies are copies, .You pay a couple of bucks, you take your chances...If it works, all is well,biggrin.png

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I have ordered an Original Swiss rotary on a whim for what I considered to be "cheap" but no where near as cheap as the stealth clones are. How much different do you think they are ? I know the originals sell retail for nearly $500, is it worth the coin to shell out for one? I have heard a couple of people lining with them how well do you tink it would push a 9rl ?

Haha, you think the Stealth is cheap, check out this one I was considering:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261041229560?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

For $8, it looked like the best one, because the metal around the tube vise looks like

it was milled properly, and not just bent into shape like some others. I'm sure if you get

a good one, it'll work as well as the Stealth. And as others have pointed out, even if

the motor burns out early, you just buy another one! Or even a replacement motor.

I ended up getting a $27 dragonfly clone:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150819250094?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Partly based on Nippy's post about the clone being better, but also because I thought my first

rotary should have an adjustable hitting force.

Will keep you posted on how it performs.......

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Partly based on Nippy's post about the clone being better, but also because I thought my first

rotary should have an adjustable hitting force.

Will keep you posted on how it performs.......

What you need to remember, is the "original" clone has now been copied...These new clones are probs 3rd gen, and the parts used are "usually" inferior, and are less robust than the earlier models...I can only vouch for the first generation of clones...With regards to the other Rotary, it is not just a case of changing over the motor if it burns out..You need to watch out for an inconsistent stroke, bearing issues and you may find that you will need to ramp up the volts when you increase your needle grouping to the point where it becomes very uncomfortable for the client..Keep us posted, will be interesting to see how you get on with then..P

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One of the artist at my shop just got one of those same dragon fly clones last week. He loves it and it's his first rotary aswell. My biggest issue with it (haven't actually used it) is the tube vise being made so flimsy. I would say for $25 it's worth a shot.

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One of the artist at my shop just got one of those same dragon fly clones last week. He loves it and it's his first rotary aswell. My biggest issue with it (haven't actually used it) is the tube vise being made so flimsy. I would say for $25 it's worth a shot.

The vise on this one can't be worse than the older style that was on my

National Flyweight, which many people have to use a rat-tail file on, because

the opening is too small for some tubes. The swing-gate design is MUCH

better.

I'm looking for a liner, although it seems most people like rotaries for

color packing mainly.

Is your co-worker using it for lining or shading, or both? Does he

prefer the rotary for only shading?

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Lining with any of the clone machine mentioned, is very difficult or impossible for various reasons....The best Lining Rotaries I have came across, are in no particular order....Special Technique Tracker-450bucks, D Kubin Cranker-320bucks, Swash Gen7 -500bucks RW Classic-200bucks, NeoTat LS-320bucks.....Prices are approx.........

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ok, just got my dragonfly clone in (pretty fast shipping).

First impressions: It's very strange to have the needle not fully retracted every time

I stop the machine. Sometimes it's sticking all the way out when stopped! Very strange

if you've only used coils, but I suppose I can get used to it.

The amount of "throw" seems a bit large, compared to my coils. I've seen the

ebay kits where you can change the one part to adjust the throw, so maybe

I'll need that, but maybe not. I may just need to get used to having the needle

being withdrawn deeper into the tube.

The "hit" adjustment knob took a while to figure out how to use, but it

does appear to adjust the force of the hit, as well as partly the amount

of throw as well. I suspect the genuine Dragonflys would perform

better in this adjustment.

The needle bar tensioner appears to do the same job as

the rubber bands on my other machines. Appears to work

quite well.

The overall weight is fantastically light, compared to my

heavy National machines. This could be the best advantage, and

the overall vibration is less.

Can't wait to try it out for real......color packing first......

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i'd say, in general to all of you... stop supporting all those bastards copying machines and selling cheap shit... don't cry later when the machine stops working in the middle of a tattoo. if you're gonna do things right, buy the real thing. coil or rotary, stop buying shit. some may say "i don't have money for a good machine", ok, save some money. if you can't, stop thinking about tattooing, because you're gonna need money to invest if you want to be a pro. if you just want to scratch some skin on your kitchen, ok, these are your machines.

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One of the artist at my shop just got one of those same dragon fly clones last week. He loves it and it's his first rotary aswell. My biggest issue with it (haven't actually used it) is the tube vise being made so flimsy. I would say for $25 it's worth a shot.

I see what you mean about the tube vise. If I put some muscle into it,

I can actually rotate the tube. Looking at the genuine Dragonfly, it doesn't

look like it would grip any tighter. The machining tolerance appears to be

better, but the overall gripping surface area is equally small.

It may or may not be a design flaw.

It may not matter at all because the machine is sooo light, and the vibrations

are so minimal, that it's very possible there won't be a problem with tube

slippage. The tube didn't appear to slip during my test runs.

After years of heavy National machines, this thing is ultra light! Almost

like holding a pencil to me.

I'll probably either love it or hate it.....we'll soon find out......

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i'd say, in general to all of you... stop supporting all those bastards copying machines and selling cheap shit... don't cry later when the machine stops working in the middle of a tattoo. if you're gonna do things right, buy the real thing. coil or rotary, stop buying shit. some may say "i don't have money for a good machine", ok, save some money. if you can't, stop thinking about tattooing, because you're gonna need money to invest if you want to be a pro. if you just want to scratch some skin on your kitchen, ok, these are your machines.

I totally agree, 100% , copies of ANY builds, be it Coils or Rotaries, are usually SHIT...

I just bought a Lime Green Spektra Halo. direct from Gaston/FKI....£400/$600....Does anybody really think 10 Copies will be better....

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Damn straight ! My first machine was $350 plus.....in 1988 ! That took some fucking sacrifice , imagine that in todays money . Anyway , back then , you couldnt just buy a machine .....you had to be backed up by someone known.....maybe a practice that wasnt so wrong after all

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ok, just used my dragonfly clone for the first time.

The customers really liked it. They thought the soft buzzing was

more soothing of a sound than the loud "bee hive" buzz of my

National machine coils. They also liked the feel of the machine. Less

pain overall.

I'm not sure why some people don't like rotaries for lining. I thought

it did great for both lining and color packing. Very light, and low

vibration, so lines turned out smoother. Very easy to use.

Still got a bit hot, but not as hot as a coil machine. The tube vise

didn't seem to be a problem: the tube didn't appear to move at all.

Time will tell how they heal, but so far, the rotary dragonfly clone is

looking very good.

Will soon buy another one for sure.

Maybe my heavy National coil days will soon be over......... smile.png

Edited by Dr. Slick

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BUMP , NIPPY! what do you think of the spektra, a nicks and a spektra are on the top of my wishlist, the spektra apparently has the magical extra whip on the downstroke that is highly saught after as well and adjustable give system, of its anything like my fk coil it will rock

Edited by Joel444

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BUMP , NIPPY! what do you think of the spektra, a nicks and a spektra are on the top of my wishlist, the spektra apparently has the magical extra whip on the downstroke that is highly saught after as well and adjustable give system, of its anything like my fk coil it will rock

Hey Joel, I am still waiting for my Spektra, because it was one of the new colours it takes longer.....Should be here in 2 weeks...I only got one to try it out, I don't use adjustable give Rotaries, and prefer the no give 4mm stroke ones, Cranker/Spec Tech/Nicks...But the soft shading/blending capabilities attracted me to the Spektra..Get a Nicks machine first, they are simply fantastic....Oh and the Eikon Meter doesn't accurately show CPS on any Rotary, the figures you see soon become erratic, and will jump all over the place...The best example is the Bazooka, it will show CPS up to 8v's and then it goes ballistic, figs jump between 80-170 cps in a mili-second...P

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alright sweet man thanks for the info cant wait for your spektra review i know it will be a good and detailed one, im really curious about what gives it that coil like whip on the downstroke, like what seperates it from say a dragonflys give system

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