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janne

Color Packer Set Up

34 posts in this topic

Hello!

Could some one help me build good color packer.

What i have now is long .18 front spring .16 rear air gap is about 4mm (Three nickels) and point gap is maybe same i have 100Hertz speed at 7.5V (loaded with 15Mag) Duty is 50% and Follow through 0. I have nice Fluttering effect and machine is hitting medium strong. Is there something that i should change ? I can pack the color but it is bit faint. Is there something i should do to get nice solid color fills. Should i increase voltage or lower them? Liner is great and cutback shader is does really smooth job. I haven´t done many , maybe 5 color tattoos and i have bit of trouble getting good fill´s. If you can understand my bad English and have the answer please reply...

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4mm between your contact point? that seems large to me - 1mm more like it

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pics would help to see your gaps.

my guess is your hand speed is prolly a little too fast.

is it just healing light or can u not get it in solid? and what inks r u using?

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pics would help to see your gaps.

my guess is your hand speed is prolly a little too fast.

is it just healing light or can u not get it in solid? and what inks r u using?

4mm is about three nickels.

Handspeed maybe be the issue...

Eternal for colors and Panther XXX For Black.

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4mm between your contact point? that seems large to me - 1mm more like it

I have 1mm for liner and cutback shader. Shouldnt you have larger gaps for color machine. according to Joshua Carlton, he has bigger gaps than 4mm for color packer...

But what do i know, i´m the one having troubles :P

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i agree its prolly ur hand speed. my packer has a monster throw, just takes a lil time to get used to.

just work on ur technique, play with hand speed, depth, and volts B)

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I'd switch the front spring for a .16 or even a .15 to slow the machine down a bit, try to get it around 80hz.

Your gap should be fine, you want a decent stroke on a packer.

Don't worry to much about the flutter just work on getting it running smooth and realise that with the longer stroke they can be a bit more clattery ( is that even a word?) so it will sound noisier.

Definitely slow your hand speed down and try starting out with a 7 or 9 mag until you get the hang of the set up then move on to 15's.

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Try .016 on both the timing and rear springs like B said...........I also run my stuff with out o-rings.

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Try .016 on both the timing and rear springs like B said...........I also run my stuff with out o-rings.

Ok, i will. B)

Can you tell me what is your air gap and contact point gap. also what speed are u running?

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I think i got it! B)

.16 front .15 back. Air gap 2.6mm (allmost two nickels). Contact point gap 3.2mm (two nickels). Back spring tension low so that front spring barely bends when machine is "resting". No O-ring (2 rubber bands)

with 15mag 70Hz 40%Duty 7.5V FT3

I colored my foot and black went in nicely and solid!

Thank you all!

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A slight tangent.....who prefers heavy hitting,big a bar packers,and who softer ones,and why?And what are the numbers you use to get what you want?

The reason I ask is,having been out of mainstream tattooing for a while the concept of the dedicated colour packer is a relatively new one to me,albeit one I embrace wholeheartedly,and as such I would like to know as much as possible about peoples thoughts on the matter

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Colour packing success is as much to do with getting your machine to be in synch with your handspeed than anything else. My throw on my colour packers is around 2-2.5mm and it runs fairly quickly for a colour packer about 120Hz because i've got quite quick hand speed (and the bruises to show for it! :unsure: ).

If you work on your own how do you compare your hand speed? How do you know wether it's fast, slow or average? You can only guess and maybe compare it with other tattooists on dvds. Trial and error is probably your own realistic answer.

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I too am setting up a color packer ive got a frame from a a builder i know in oregon (nice stuff) and i purchased a bunch of different gauge springs that ill toy with different configs.

I bought a nice set of 8 wrap coils from markt4life should be at the doorstep anyday now. my question is i've seen different size armature bars like really light ones thicker ones (heavier) fatter, skinnier, I'm thinking of goimg with the heavier bar for a little more penetration. what do you guys think?

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I'm thinking of goimg with the heavier bar for a little more penetration. what do you guys think?

yep thats what id do, although you can get away with using a mid weight one to.

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hmmm i dont have any heavy a bars, only some lightened, longer, or shorter

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hmmm i dont have any heavy a bars, only some lightened, longer, or shorter

well there you go, there are no rules.

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i know that eikon makes a heavy a bar looks loike it is a third thicker than the others. and also through wild angel they have a half inch wide a bar that im assuming is heavier.

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Colour packing success is as much to do with getting your machine to be in synch with your handspeed than anything else. My throw on my colour packers is around 2-2.5mm and it runs fairly quickly for a colour packer about 120Hz because i've got quite quick hand speed (and the bruises to show for it! :lol: ).

If you work on your own how do you compare your hand speed? How do you know wether it's fast, slow or average? You can only guess and maybe compare it with other tattooists on dvds. Trial and error is probably your own realistic answer.

Well said.....Some builders will build you a machine to your exact specs.

Speed ,throw and hit to what you have found works best for you.......AWESOME.

Talk to buzz.

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what weight range would classify it as heavy or mid wieght? mine weight in at 13.5g and 13.8g

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what weight range would classify it as heavy or mid wieght? mine weight in at 13.5g and 13.8g

armature bars

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im not sure what weight exactly but I know eikon sells three different weights and wildangel has wider bars said to be for color wider i assume is heavier. i bet its not much of a difference as with alot of tweaks you can do to a machine. a little here equals alot there.

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what i meant is if anyone knew what a 13.5g armature bar would be considered...light medium or heavy

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oh my sooo many specifications...... geee i would get someone who's known for building good machines to build me one ( like buzzbrush i'm using those build to my spec ) and go with that, if any of my machines break or wotever, dont work right i just get a new one :) dont bother anymore messing about with my machines :)

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