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Color Packer Set Up

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33 replies to this topic

#1
janne

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Hello!
Could some one help me build good color packer.
What i have now is long .18 front spring .16 rear air gap is about 4mm (Three nickels) and point gap is maybe same i have 100Hertz speed at 7.5V (loaded with 15Mag) Duty is 50% and Follow through 0. I have nice Fluttering effect and machine is hitting medium strong. Is there something that i should change ? I can pack the color but it is bit faint. Is there something i should do to get nice solid color fills. Should i increase voltage or lower them? Liner is great and cutback shader is does really smooth job. I havenīt done many , maybe 5 color tattoos and i have bit of trouble getting good fillīs. If you can understand my bad English and have the answer please reply...
-Peace

#2
ink-sink

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4mm between your contact point? that seems large to me - 1mm more like it
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#3
purdytats

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pics would help to see your gaps.
my guess is your hand speed is prolly a little too fast.
is it just healing light or can u not get it in solid? and what inks r u using?
aka: KrazyRabbitt

#4
janne

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View Postpurdytats, on Aug 20 2009, 01:20 PM, said:

pics would help to see your gaps.
my guess is your hand speed is prolly a little too fast.
is it just healing light or can u not get it in solid? and what inks r u using?

4mm is about three nickels.
Handspeed maybe be the issue...
Eternal for colors and Panther XXX For Black.
-Peace

#5
janne

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View Postink-sink, on Aug 20 2009, 11:52 AM, said:

4mm between your contact point? that seems large to me - 1mm more like it

I have 1mm for liner and cutback shader. Shouldnt you have larger gaps for color machine. according to Joshua Carlton, he has bigger gaps than 4mm for color packer...
But what do i know, iīm the one having troubles :P
-Peace

#6
purdytats

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i agree its prolly ur hand speed. my packer has a monster throw, just takes a lil time to get used to.
just work on ur technique, play with hand speed, depth, and volts B)
aka: KrazyRabbitt

#7
bonsairock

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I'd switch the front spring for a .16 or even a .15 to slow the machine down a bit, try to get it around 80hz.
Your gap should be fine, you want a decent stroke on a packer.
Don't worry to much about the flutter just work on getting it running smooth and realise that with the longer stroke they can be a bit more clattery ( is that even a word?) so it will sound noisier.
Definitely slow your hand speed down and try starting out with a 7 or 9 mag until you get the hang of the set up then move on to 15's.
If you believe you have nothing left to learn, check your pulse, you could be dead.

#8
voodoo2

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Try .016 on both the timing and rear springs like B said...........I also run my stuff with out o-rings.
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#9
janne

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View Postvoodoo2, on Aug 21 2009, 10:11 PM, said:

Try .016 on both the timing and rear springs like B said...........I also run my stuff with out o-rings.

Ok, i will. B)
Can you tell me what is your air gap and contact point gap. also what speed are u running?
-Peace

#10
janne

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I think i got it! B)
.16 front .15 back. Air gap 2.6mm (allmost two nickels). Contact point gap 3.2mm (two nickels). Back spring tension low so that front spring barely bends when machine is "resting". No O-ring (2 rubber bands)

with 15mag 70Hz 40%Duty 7.5V FT3
I colored my foot and black went in nicely and solid!

Thank you all!
-Peace

#11
shocker

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A slight tangent.....who prefers heavy hitting,big a bar packers,and who softer ones,and why?And what are the numbers you use to get what you want?

The reason I ask is,having been out of mainstream tattooing for a while the concept of the dedicated colour packer is a relatively new one to me,albeit one I embrace wholeheartedly,and as such I would like to know as much as possible about peoples thoughts on the matter
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#12
jOE bLOW

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Colour packing success is as much to do with getting your machine to be in synch with your handspeed than anything else. My throw on my colour packers is around 2-2.5mm and it runs fairly quickly for a colour packer about 120Hz because i've got quite quick hand speed (and the bruises to show for it! :unsure: ).

If you work on your own how do you compare your hand speed? How do you know wether it's fast, slow or average? You can only guess and maybe compare it with other tattooists on dvds. Trial and error is probably your own realistic answer.
Success comes before work, only in the dictionary.

#13
STEELE

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I too am setting up a color packer ive got a frame from a a builder i know in oregon (nice stuff) and i purchased a bunch of different gauge springs that ill toy with different configs.
I bought a nice set of 8 wrap coils from markt4life should be at the doorstep anyday now. my question is i've seen different size armature bars like really light ones thicker ones (heavier) fatter, skinnier, I'm thinking of goimg with the heavier bar for a little more penetration. what do you guys think?

#14
PAINT

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View Poststeal25, on Aug 27 2009, 04:57 AM, said:

I'm thinking of goimg with the heavier bar for a little more penetration. what do you guys think?
yep thats what id do, although you can get away with using a mid weight one to.

The dumber people think you are, the more surprised they're going to be when you kill them.

#15
done here

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hmmm i dont have any heavy a bars, only some lightened, longer, or shorter

#16
PAINT

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View PostMARKT4LYF, on Aug 27 2009, 11:02 AM, said:

hmmm i dont have any heavy a bars, only some lightened, longer, or shorter

well there you go, there are no rules.

The dumber people think you are, the more surprised they're going to be when you kill them.

#17
STEELE

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i know that eikon makes a heavy a bar looks loike it is a third thicker than the others. and also through wild angel they have a half inch wide a bar that im assuming is heavier.

#18
CHRIS-IN-CALI

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View PostjOE bLOW, on Aug 22 2009, 03:08 PM, said:

Colour packing success is as much to do with getting your machine to be in synch with your handspeed than anything else. My throw on my colour packers is around 2-2.5mm and it runs fairly quickly for a colour packer about 120Hz because i've got quite quick hand speed (and the bruises to show for it! :lol: ).

If you work on your own how do you compare your hand speed? How do you know wether it's fast, slow or average? You can only guess and maybe compare it with other tattooists on dvds. Trial and error is probably your own realistic answer.

Well said.....Some builders will build you a machine to your exact specs.
Speed ,throw and hit to what you have found works best for you.......AWESOME.

Talk to buzz.
There is nothing more dangerous then stupid people with good intentions....

#19
dRock13

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what weight range would classify it as heavy or mid wieght? mine weight in at 13.5g and 13.8g

#20
dRock13

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View PostdRock13, on Aug 27 2009, 10:45 PM, said:

what weight range would classify it as heavy or mid wieght? mine weight in at 13.5g and 13.8g
armature bars