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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Here’s an original idea, pick an artist you admire or the one who you would like to do your tattoo and book an appointment/consultation with them , pass your info to them and take it from there.... nobody here is gonna spend time thinking about your ideas or doodling something up for you when they are not going to be doing the tattoo !
  2. 1 point
  3. 1 point
    Just soap and water, scrubbed with a toothbrush should do it. Rubbing alcohol if it doesn't cooperate. Usually, needle groupings need to be rinsed out during use to keep the ink from congealing. Don't wait until you're finished (I assume you're tattooing many animals at a time). Rinse it out regularly during the process; then shake the water out of the needles so you don't dilute the ink in the next tattoo
  4. 1 point
    Not going deep enough is usually the best guess but cant say for sure and i dont want to say go deeper. It can be simpler things, quality of ink matters...practice on fruits then try doing simple lines on your upper leg...but before all your machine needs to be tuned so it hits properly the right speed with the proper speed of your hand. Keep practicing until you get the feel for your machine. As you keep practicing you will start to understand the machine more and more and upgrade your equipment. U can do work with cheaper stuff yes, but quality machines are consistent and dealing with something that is going Inside the skin a mm with precision then it really matters...
  5. 1 point
    Practicing on fake skin and pig skin can only give you some of the understanding of how to tattoo a real person, because real human skin involves stretching and angling your hand and body, and adjusting the needle depth to the skin region - if you tattoo on someone’s inner forearm or wrist the way you tattoo on the back, you’re in for a world of blow outs lol. Pig skin and fake skin also don’t get cut or damaged the same as live human skin I work with a rotary machine so increasing voltage increases the speed of the needle striking the skin - speed also affects the momentum and force of the needle. If the machine is running too fast, the same portions of skin will be struck too many times too hard and can cause damage. Depth of the needle can also cause damage, and TYPE of needle can also cause damage if the needle grouping is tight combined with higher voltage (speed) That being said, the idea is to have the needle hitting at a speed that is non harmful, and moving your hand at a speed which can make sure the needle is able to deliver enough ink in an area to create a solid line, but not slow enough that the same place is hit too many times. Needle depth is also critical, too shallow of a line and perfect hand speed and voltage will still yield inconsistent lines. Too deep and obviously you get the joy of seeing a tiny black vein or area spread next to your line. My mentor informed me that the shorter stroke is better for lining because you can increase the speed of the needle strike, while making sure the force of each impact is not too much to damage the skin. A large stroke cam, combined with a higher voltage will cut the skin most likely because it is too strong of an impact for the small area of the needle tip. So small stroke will allow you to increase the speed high enough that you have a less chance of damaging the skin simply through the momentum of the needle. *edit* note that 10 volts 2.5cam will hit much less hard but at the same speed compared to a 4.0 cam with 10 volts.
  6. 1 point
    Witch hazel is good stuff; great for diluting. Also, after the tattoo, soak a paper towel in WH and sit it on the tattoo for a couple of minutes. You'll be surprised at how well it soothes the skin and makes the redness and swelling go away. It really helps with getting a good picture.
  7. 1 point
    part of how i learnt my liner setups is when you bring that needle to the skin it shouldnt be throwing much more ink onto the skin than the thickness of the needle, you'll see one little pool when after a fresh dip but it should suck that ink right back up, if your getting ink flooding or spatter then somethings not quite right, it might be close enough to put ink into the skin but it's not good enough for consistently good line work. common culprits are too much voltage(it's surprising how little power you need to get that needle in the skin), too much or too little spring tension, tube and needle misalignment and commonly in new tattooists the wrong needle size in a machine with a set up for a much larger or smaller needle group. generally speaking the larger the group the lower the required spring gauge. All in all without having someone to sit you down and strip and build your machines with you while telling you every point to consider while tuning them your going to struggle for a while with finding a good set up. to start with you have a bad basis for comparison as your hand skills havent developed enough to know how your machine is performing properly either. The single best thing you can do is order a bucket of springs and different a bar weights and then strip and rebuild and test and play with your machines all day day after day until your fingers bleed and then some. set aside a section of your leg just to do small lines on, another section for shading and colouring, dont waste time trying to do a full tattoo piece. line by line you can compare the machine performance as the lines heal and sit side by side. my upper thighs bare all the marks of many hours of machine testing over the years and even now if i make some adjustments or try something new i'll test my machines with some water on the skin of my forearm. i like very fast liners and small needle groups so it's crucial i make sure they wont cut the skin open before i slice my client into oblivion. There is so much information about machine tuning around but very little as it relates to the tattoo as it heals or in the years to come and this is something you'll only gain with experience, no one can tell how how your tattoo will heal, as everyone says the practice of tattooing is a very personal thing, down to the idiosyncrasies(sp?) of the operator.
  8. 1 point
    I was curious if anyone has made their own Stencil stuff, a couple of other artist I know prefer to do it this way vs buying the bottles. From what I've seen some of theirs is equal to if not better. I've been trying to decide if I should buy or try my own formula. Any suggestions, concerns, etc. ?
  9. 1 point
    ive seen a foot tattoo incorporating petals flowers leaves etc that was done 10 years ago by my local tattoo shop and it still looks absolutely spot on from what I can see , this is on a friends mothers foot , still looks as good as when she got it done although the guy (Paul - titan tattoo) has been doing tattoos a long time from what i've see tattoos under the foot usually turn green and faded , I left a machine and ink set at a friends and returned to find our friend had randomly tattooed a smiley face underneath his big toe and it went green .he still likes it tho I have done a tattoo on somebodys foot and wouldnt really like to do it again as it took 6 hours to do a simple star and flourish design because she kept asking for me to stop and some lines faded so I re-did those (she did admit that she didn't look after it properly after a few days) I have no idea how the re-do turned out because I fell out with her boyfriend and so I havnt really seen her since Huck Spauldings book tattoo A-Z reccomends not doing tattoos below the ankle as tattoos lower to the ground are more prone to infection apparently , I know that that book is not the best reference for learning but that piece may be right all in all I wouldnt like to do another foot tattoo but at the same time would like to get the nike logo tattooed on one foot
  10. 1 point
    In regards to consistency, being a beginner myself, I found switching to diamond tips allows me to ride the tube to get depth consistency while still being able to see where I'm going with my needle. I think for me, it's far too hard to get good results when riding the needle. A little test I did, get a really fine paintbrush and see if you can paint a line that is the same thickness from start to finish, if you can't (which I couldn't) it's a pretty good indicator to not ride the needle with a tattoo machine.
  11. 1 point
    Don't know if this will help you, but I softened up my liner quite a bit after I dug into one piece on my calf pretty bad, and am getting better results. I'm still going a little deep for my liking, but am getting more consistent results because the machine isn't driving the tips down so hard. With a softer hitter, you've got to really pay attention to your stretch, or it'll start bouncing around. It improved my overall lining considerably. I'm using a cutback pitbull with a medium-to-long stroke.
  12. 1 point
    The hardest part of lining without a doubt is consistency. You're trying to line at a consistent depth on a rounded uneven surface. And even then the thickness of the skin changes on the same body part. Single pass lining that heals well is hard! It took me years and a perfectly running machine and finding the right ink for my style to finally get to a point where i am almost satisfied with it. A lot of the "perfect" line work we see in the mags every month is fresh work. I wonder how a lot of that work looks in 6 months to a year? Some of it still probably looks perfect but i bet some of it doesn't too. Practice is the only way. And i don't mean on pig skin either! It doesn't heal so you can't tell wether it's a good lining job or not. Even tattooists that have been tattooing for years are always practicing on people. That's what we're doing every day: practicing because nobody ever reaches perfection. Nobody in theory is actually good enough to start tattooing when they start tattooing but the only way to improve is to do it more often so we're left with no other option. Don't beat yourself up about it, just keep persisting, keep an eye on your angles, your stretch, the tuning of your machine and make sure you loup your needles. Nobody can achieve good lines with bad needles. There's more to this craft than people think. Good luck.
  13. 1 point
    a good way to practice mixing ppigments is using acrylic paints. Pigments mix almost identicly. I have had the best results mixing in the cap with a toothpick, although they do make pigment stirrers. Start with a base color, then dip the tip of the toothpick into the mixing color and stirr very well.dip once stir, dip again then stir, ect. here are some examples pink= cap white + one dip red hot pink= cap white + 2 dips red light blue= cap white+ 1 dip dark blue navy blue= cap white+ 3 dip dark blue battle ship grey = cap white+ 1/2 to 1 dip black