Sterilization, Do i need to do it if... |
![]() ![]() |
Sterilization, Do i need to do it if... |
May 7 2007, 03:45 AM
Post
#1
|
|
|
|
Hi guys
I should be getting a kit soon and because i'm merely a student without alot of money i was planning to get one from ebay...i know you guys think they're trash but i'm learning so i'm just going to throw some money on a machine and some needles and what not. Has anyone bought a machine off ebay? and if so are they decent to work with? And about sterilization...please don't flame me for being ignorant but i just wanted to know, when using disposable tubes and needles, can i re-use them if i'm only planning to practice on fake skin or pig skin or fruits? Sorry if its a moronic question...I know tubes and needles are cheap anyways and its not worth saving couple of dollars and risking infection but with regards to fruit and fake skin can i re-use dispoable or metal tubes without Proper sterilisation. Ofcourse when i do practice on myself or others disposables are one time use only DEFINITELY! Thanks in advance. Dave -------------------- Life is like a tattoo...it can hurt like hell but beautiful when done right.
|
|
|
|
May 7 2007, 04:15 AM
Post
#2
|
|
|
|
I keep a tube and needle separate from the rest of my equipment that I use on fake skin "the rubber" kind". I keep them clean even though they are only for the fake skin and nothing else. They are also marked with colored tape and says PRACTICE on it, so I know what it was used for. I wouldn't recommend using the same needle on pig skin though, because its going to hold bacteria from the pig and you don't want that anywhere near your sterile equipment. I guess if you have to reuse your practice needle and tube keep them clean and in a sealed container away from the sterile stuff. Just to prevent any cross contamination.
|
|
|
|
May 7 2007, 04:19 AM
Post
#3
|
|
|
|
It's good that as beginners you guys are thinking of things like this. That's the difference between a scratcher and an amateur if you ask me. :)
-------------------- Success comes before work, only in the dictionary.
|
|
|
|
May 7 2007, 04:31 AM
Post
#4
|
|
|
|
Sweet!
Thanks Tina, thats a great idea to seperate the tube and needle i'll be using on fruit and fake skin from the others. Simple and safe. Ofcourse i will be doing my best to keep that needle and tube clean even though i am only using it on fake skin and fruits. Cheers. Dave -------------------- Life is like a tattoo...it can hurt like hell but beautiful when done right.
|
|
|
|
May 7 2007, 06:23 AM
Post
#5
|
|
|
|
I do what Tiny Tina does. I bought a plastic toothbrush tavel tube and stuffed one end with cotton and thats where I keep my "melon needles".
|
|
|
|
May 7 2007, 11:23 AM
Post
#6
|
|
|
|
But don't forget, when you do do that don't forget to clean the needle and tube so you don't mix the colors....
-------------------- a Quote from the master...
PAIN,,, Pain for you. Fun for me |
|
|
|
May 7 2007, 01:32 PM
Post
#7
|
|
|
|
hi davodian,
just to say that for a cheaper sterilization set up it's possible to pick up an ultrasonic cleaner for about £15 and a pressure cooker (about £25) to steam sterilize your tubes - not a good idea to use it for needles, but okay as a basic setup for other bits. It's a good idea to read up on various sterilization methods (and what health departments require). An autoclave is ideal but the pressure cooker (to the best of my knowledge) will do much the same thing - for the future if you get the cash (an autoclave) with a drying cycle is recommended although by far the priciest option! As previously said keep a track of what bits are used for practice skins etc and try to get into good practice - keeping it clean is part of the deal, so it's good to start early. best wishes gurgigirl |
|
|
|
May 7 2007, 02:02 PM
Post
#8
|
|
|
|
its a good idea to keep a needle n tube, just 4 the pig skin, and a set 4 fake skin. when i started out i got a wierd film grow on some of my fake skin because of the Bacteria in the pig skin :o it wasent very nice to say the lest.
|
|
|
|
May 8 2007, 09:35 AM
Post
#9
|
|
|
|
I do what Tiny Tina does. I bought a plastic toothbrush tavel tube and stuffed one end with cotton and thats where I keep my "melon needles". Good idea ..i'm gonna do that. :D -------------------- ToySoldiersUnite.com
|
|
|
|
May 8 2007, 11:33 AM
Post
#10
|
|
|
|
I FOUND THIS ARTICLE IF IT HELPS 3.5 Methods Of Disinfection And Sterilization Disinfectants Disinfectants and "cold-sterilization" solutions destroy many microorganisms (bacteria, viruses, fungi) but do not destroy bacterial spores. Disinfection does not replace autoclave sterilization. Disinfectants should be used on hard surfaces (ie. trays, countertop, chair) and reusable, non-autoclaveable tools, such as plastic calipers, before and after each procedure. Product usage instructions vary and some may not be suitable for all surfaces or applications. Some disinfectants are toxic and require special disposal, making them inappropriate for soaking jewelry prior to insertion. Ultrasonic Cleaner Prior to sterilization, instruments contaminated with blood and other debris should be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. The ultrasonic cleaner uses cavitation (implosion of microscopic air bubbles produced by ultrasonic vibration) to remove debris. The ultrasonic cleaner is usually filled with a disinfectant or ultrasonic-specific solution. Jewelry should not be placed directly in the ultrasonic cleaner or with tools or other jewelry because it will be scratched. Sterilization Sterilization is the process of killing all microorganisms including bacteria, bacterial spores, fungi, and viruses. Improper sterilization can result in the spread of infectious bacteria and bloodborne viruses such as Hepatitis and HIV. Boiling is not an appropriate method of sterilization. Autoclave The most complete and reliable method of sterilization is the steam autoclave or chemical autoclave. The steam autoclave uses pressurized steam; the chemical autoclave often uses Ethylene oxide. Steam autoclaves are used by piercers more frequently than chemical autoclaves because of the hazards associated with Ethylene oxide. Pressure Cookers Pressure cookers may also be used for sterilization but with many disadvantages. Pressure cookers are not as reliable as autoclaves in maintaining temperature and pressure and do not display time, temperature or pressure (PSI). Pressure cookers will not dry the sterilized items; wet sterilization bags are susceptible to contamination. If a pressure cooker is used, items should be processed for at least 30 minutes at 15-20 pounds pressure. Internal indicators which indicate that heat and steam have penetrated the packaging and reached the instruments should be used inside every sterilization bag. Dry Heat While Occupational Safety and Health Administration Standards (December 6, 1991; 29 CFR 1910.1030) recognizes dry heat sterilizers, they have several disadvantages. Sterilizing items in a dry heat sterilizer is extremely time and energy consuming. Some jewelry and piercing equipment cannot tolerate the high temperature required for sterilization. Sterilization Packaging Instruments to be sterilized are placed in self-sealing sterilization bags or sterilization tubing sealed with indicator tape. The tape and the outside of the bag or tubing are marked with external indicators which change color when exposed to heat and steam. Internal indicators which indicate that heat and steam have penetrated the packaging and reached the instruments can be used as an added precaution. Sterilization bags should be allowed to dry thoroughly before being removed from the autoclave. Wet bags are susceptible to contamination. Sterilizer Monitoring and Testing Sterilizers should be spore tested at least monthly. Spore testing kits contain two bacteria spore samples, one of which is cycled in the autoclave and the other used as a control. Spore testing systems are available for in-studio testing or testing by an independent laboratory. |
|
|
|
May 9 2007, 06:31 AM
Post
#11
|
|
|
|
that's a great bit of info tattoobox... (I was starting to worry about suggesting a pressure cooker )
thanks and best wishes gurgigirl ;D |
|
|
|
May 9 2007, 12:33 PM
Post
#12
|
|
|
|
ive read alot of articles and spoke to people and in my research ive found that a pressure cooker is an accepted way of sterilization
you will have to leave it cooking for 2-3 times as long as an autoclave, the only diffrence is that it wont dry your equipment if in pouches/bags so basically you either have to use straight away or store in some sort of sterilized enviroment. but as for needles i dont sterilize and dont use them again if i made my own needles then i would sterilize them before use anyway. alot of authorities insist on an autoclave in your shop and to be spore tested once a month at least and some authorities wont even ask questions on your methods bearing in mind im from the UK. |
|
|
|
May 9 2007, 12:40 PM
Post
#13
|
|
|
|
Sterilization packages are plastic and paper when the paper is still wet form being processed it’s considered a permeable membrane. After I sterilize I vent the autoclave it releases pressure and pushes all the water back into the reservoir and lets the pressure out. I then crack the door and all the steam escapes in ten minutes the bags are dry from the 265-degree heat leaving the chamber.
You need to have your packages paper side up or if you are doing a large load they need to be bundles with their sides up. If you use a pressure cooker type you need to vent the chamber and take the top off and move to the side like the lid on a pot. The steam will escape drying your packages and not compromising the items. When you don’t see any more steam coming out and everything looks dry then remove from chamber -------------------- |
|
|
|
May 9 2007, 04:43 PM
Post
#14
|
|
|
|
-------------------- a Quote from the master...
PAIN,,, Pain for you. Fun for me |
|
|
|
May 16 2007, 12:54 AM
Post
#15
|
|
|
|
ok, let me make sure I got this straight, how do you use a pressure cooker to sterelize, I get that you by the test strips and bags, but do you allow the to sit in the water of the pressure cooker or do you have a platform the sit on so they are only exposed to steam?
|
|
|
|
May 16 2007, 03:30 AM
Post
#16
|
|
|
|
no dont put them in water theres usually a tray that sits on top of the water ,place them there
the steam under pressure will do the job just fine, i recommend to leave for about 30 minutes as opposed to 10-15 in an autoclave then look at what mark said earlier about the steam clearing the pot |
|
|
|
May 16 2007, 04:52 AM
Post
#17
|
|
|
|
hey D, as for the ebay tat gun, I got one when i first started but also got tubes and needles from a tattoo supplier. Then I upgraded to a pro gun and over all was much better. But for starting off i shouldnt see why not with the ebay tat gun.
-------------------- "And Shepherds we shall be. For thee, my Lord, for thee. Power hath descended forth from Thy hand. Our feet may swiftly carry out Thy commands. So we shall flow a river forth to Thee. And teeming with souls shall it ever be. In Nomeni Patri Et Fili Spiritus Sancti."
|
|
|
|
Jun 1 2007, 01:57 PM
Post
#18
|
|
|
|
just to let you know when saving money, if you buy a steel grip for like ten or 15 back and buy gripless disposable tubes, they are like 30 cents a piece as opposed to the tubes with grips that are 75 cents to $1.00... how much money are you looking to throw down if you dont mind me asking.... because if you shop right you can get a decent kit for the same amount as the $250 ones on ebay
|
|
|
|
Jun 10 2007, 11:13 AM
Post
#19
|
|
|
|
Hi, just wanted to tell some informations I have about sterilization and pressure cookers.
Pressure cookers use a similar way to sterilize, but the problem with the cookers is that, before the steri-process starts, there should be a vakuum inside the cooker and a pressure cooker can`t provide this. If you don`t have the vacuum, there could be little "security-shields" made of air wrapped around possible bacterias, and so the steam can`t kill them. To really kill all the bad stuff that could be on equipment you should sterilize at 138C° , about 2.5 bar at least 6 minutes (better to take a safety time of 12 minutes) - sorry about the C° and bar measurements, I am from Austria/Europe, we have a different system there, but I hope I could help. :) -------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
No ma´am. I am not the devil, I am Musician. www.sirtralala.net www.myspace.com/SirTralala |
|
|
|
Jun 18 2007, 06:30 PM
Post
#20
|
|
|
|
Ok I have been mostly reading and reading and reading some more but, I have a question for anyone of whom can answer this for me. First, I have on there way both an autoclave and an ultrasonic machine. (one can never be too careful I believe). When I was practicing as a cosmetologist we used a chemical called Quaternary Ammonium Compounds (Quats) as a part of our sanitation regimine.
The following is some information about Quats: Quats Are The Best Choice: They Provide Safe and Effective One-Step Cleaning and Disinfecting Quaternary Ammonium Chlorides or “quats” as they are commonly known are based upon the active ingredient benzalkonium chloride. These quaternary salt compounds can be formulated with a variety of ingredients to provide a safe and effective neutral pH, disinfectant-cleaner without damaging floor finishes or sensitive floor surfaces. In addition, quats are economical and extremely effective odor control agents when used according to label directions. Quats are effective in destroying a broad spectrum of harmful microorganisms. They are effective in killing the following microorganisms while cleaning the surfaces upon which they reside – all in one simple step. 1. Gram negative and gram positive bacteria like salmonella typhi, staphylococcus aureus, streptococcus epidermidis and pseudomonas aeruginosa, 2. viruses like HIV-1, Herpes simplex 1 and 2 3. Antibiotic resistant strains of bacteria including methicillin resistant staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). 4. and fungi like trichophyton interdigitale (athlete’s foot). information obtained from: http://www.coastwidelabs.com/Technical%20A.../quatbleach.htm I know this speaks of surface and floor cleaning but, those things come in contact with the same and or simular bacteria and virus pathogens etc... as any item that has come in contact with the human body and air. Does anyone know if I could use it in the ultrasonic machine as the first step of equiptment sterilization? Quats is also non corrosive so you can also soak misc, items in a solution fo extended periods of time without it damaging them. I plan on using this on my surfaces (counters, trays, floors, sinks, and restroom facilities) as I know it is OSHA approved. If anyone has any additional information or opinions I would openly welcome any given. thank-x bunches -------------------- If you create it they will come.
TattooingDragon |
|
|
|
Jun 22 2007, 04:47 PM
Post
#21
|
|
|
|
Well i dont know about using the quats in the ultrasonic. check here for some info http://unimaxsupply.com/equip/cleanequip/infoultrasonic.htm
But next time you buy cleaner i would look into Madacide. check here http://unimaxsupply.com/md/1madacide.htm -------------------- www.freewebs.com/churchtattoo
|
|
|
|
Aug 21 2007, 07:17 PM
Post
#22
|
|
|
|
How much Green Soap to Water do you mix? And Is that the mixture you use durring the whole tattoo to wipe the persons skin? I know guys that just use water to wipe the skin durring the tattoo.
|
|
|
|
Aug 21 2007, 08:24 PM
Post
#23
|
|
|
|
I can tell you from personal experience.. you are going to want to use a new needle each time you practice.. needles dull out and even though its just fruit its noticable.. I have a couple tubes that I use for practicing on fruit.. and like others have said I also mark mine with tape and sharpie that way I know..
-------------------- No forgiveness for my sins, I preffer punishment
|
|
|
|
Aug 22 2007, 02:21 AM
Post
#24
|
|
|
|
How much Green Soap to Water do you mix? And Is that the mixture you use durring the whole tattoo to wipe the persons skin? I know guys that just use water to wipe the skin durring the tattoo. Green Soap is mixed at a 4 to 1 ratio. Meaning, for every part of greensoap you add 4 equal parts of water. I use water that has been pre boiled. EG : You buy a bottle of Green Soap concentrate that contains 125ml. You pour that into a large CLEAN bottle and add 500ml of water. 4 x 125 = 500. You will end up with 625ml of useable Green Soap solution that is used before (applying stencils, etc) during (excess ink removal) and after (final cleanup). Hope that helps. -------------------- If at first you don't succeed ......... maybe skydiving is not for you.
|
|
|
|
Aug 22 2007, 06:29 AM
Post
#25
|
|
|
|
Great, Thanks that exactly what I was wanting to know!!
|
|
|
|
Aug 22 2007, 07:09 AM
Post
#26
|
|
|
|
I bought my first kit from ebay...
i was concerned it was classed as lame and people laughing at the word Ebay... but it was alot more expensive to buy all the equiptment elsewhere that I could see. So I paid about £200 - in all honesty Dave, some of it was ok.. but the quality wasnt good. the machine was ok. but the inks were poor quality, the flash on disc was copy disks... could have downloaded it from winmx or limewire no doubt! the supplied needles where all crap sizes.. ( which of course I didnt know as a beginner ) one grip and tube and 2 steel tips.... so only the right size for one liner and one shader needle on the tips... so disposable tips had to be bought right away for all other needle sizes. basically, its a STARTER kit... your can very rarely set up from the kit and get on to skin. you have to buy other supplies. i ended up spending another £100 + pounds buying more kit to make it a workable kit, about the only thing I use from the kit is the stencil liquid and stencil apper.. and the machine! I bought a 2nd machine too..... PLUS id buy the full tubes that are loaded with the right needles. ok its a bit of an expense to buy quite a few in diff sizes, but its far safer than trying to sterilize steel grips and tubes. plus when you start getting paid for your work you'll get that money back for the disposables very fast. I wish I hadnt bought all the things I had... the loaded full tubes in mixed needle sizes would have been fine for a beginner. Invest in better inks too. I cant yet afford to cough up for milleniums or starbrites etc... its expensive to get them shipped over from the states to UK, even the uk sellers it costs a pretty penny too. But I found inks that are pretty good, and half the price of the expensive ones.. but far better than the crap they put in my starter kit! Its an expensive hobby at first! This post has been edited by Devilzadvocatt: Aug 22 2007, 07:13 AM -------------------- ..Damn it...
|
|
|
|
Nov 18 2007, 07:15 PM
Post
#27
|
|
|
|
I bought my first kit from Ebay, the business' name was investus, or 'preciousauctions'. The kit came with 2 machines, Hildbrandts. They work quite well and have had no problems with them. I will upgrade my gear soon but I was very satisfied with the kit as I could tattoo as soon as it came. Everything was there except carbon /stencil/thermal paper and stencil stuff to apply.
I use 'Purell' to transfer my stencils. It is a jellyed alcohol used to clean your hands or whatever. It is 65% Ethanol (ethyl alcohol) so it works great and doesn't leave the slippery residue that speed stick does. i don't like using speed stick for stencil transfers. The Purell dries fast so you have to be quick and if you use too much the stencil will run like hell. it takes a few tries to get it just right but I love the results. The tattoo kit came with Intenze inks. I have to agree with B!F when he says that tattys need to be cared for to have good results. No water or sunlight. Intenze seems to work just fine. I did two pieces with thick black shading and one of them faded quite soon because it got wet too much with warm/hot water from the get-go. The other tatty was cared for much better and the black looks bold and dark. Same ink, different results. -------------------- I Play Guitar, click here to have a listen!.
My influences are Van Halen, Steve Vai and Vito Bratta. Peace, Rock & Roll Up !!! - Izzy I walk my cat WEEZER ... among other things.--->Check her out, she's a HOOT ! I LOVE YOU WEE WEEZ! If you are about to leave a comment, please be as polite and positive as possible. I am sick of getting smart ass comments about my work, by users who have no tattoos in their gallery and users who NEVER EVER post any of their own goods. I know kids have fun putting others down. THINGS don't change. But let's try to be adults here. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I HATE EATING SPINACH and MUSHROOMS and I don't like watching or listening to some things too. YOU, on the other hand might LOVE eating that shit and listening to....'whatever' If anyone ever states that "I should be ashamed of myself for tattooing", I say to them......."Tell that to my clients ASS HOLE" THANK YOU COME AGAIN |
|
|
|
Nov 18 2007, 09:13 PM
Post
#28
|
|
|
|
just to let you know when saving money, if you buy a steel grip for like ten or 15 back and buy gripless disposable tubes, they are like 30 cents a piece as opposed to the tubes with grips that are 75 cents to $1.00... how much money are you looking to throw down if you dont mind me asking.... because if you shop right you can get a decent kit for the same amount as the $250 ones on ebay how does this make sense? putting a stainless steel grip on a disposable tube is not safe.....you can not reuse that grip until it is steralized. it is impossible to think that the grip will not come in contact with bbp. that is also why is it is important to bag your machine. think about it, have you ever had to adjust your rubber bands or your clip cord? do you take your gloves off for this?.....ok maybe but if you bag your machine you can just do it and not have to worry and as for disposable tubes you can get them for 50 cants a piece witch is not bad so why be a cheepskate and risk spreading desease? -------------------- 60% of the time it works every time
|
|
|
|
Nov 20 2007, 03:28 AM
Post
#29
|
|
|
|
i actually bought kit from ebay... i guess i got a hell of a deal... i brought it into to personallyfriend who owns a tattoo shop and had him test it out on me and fell in love with it... he even bou one of the 3 machines that came with the kit...
and as for sterilization.... i use all disposable.... that way to ensure everything is clean -------------------- Screw The Rent! Get A Tattoo!
GetInked.com AIM: shortdoggitc Yahoo Messenger: badboytat2s My Ebay Store Disposable tips, needles, tubes, DVD's, PS2 Games listed Visit My Site www.myspace.com/alkqnthug |
|
|
|
Feb 8 2008, 02:35 PM
Post
#30
|
|
|
|
Autoclaves can be a bit pricey. After fairly extensive research i found that you get an All American 1915x stove top autoclave for 220 bucks plus s&h from a place called Papillonsupply.com in Enfield Ct. That's for a new,not used autoclave with no integral heat source, (note: not recommended for use on glass top stoves) and they have it for 60 bucks less than the closest competitor I was able to find. (I checked at least 30 websites)
-------------------- I'm only here because I'm not all there.
|
|
|
|
Feb 8 2008, 06:47 PM
Post
#31
|
|
|
|
IMO, noobody should be getting an autoclave unless they're are already licensed or at a point where you don't have to ask these questions.
There is too much steps that are crucial when using an ultrasonic + autoclave. From proper chemicals to use, to the various procedures and steps to follow, to the spore testing, etc. Beginners and novices should stick with disposables. If its a grip problem you're having, you can find wider grip disposable tubes now days, you just have to search and cough up the little extra change for them. Too much at stake. Stick to disposables, learn the fundamentals first and along the way gather up the information so that you understand autoclaves sure fire. Then buy them. This post has been edited by Hoa Paio: Feb 8 2008, 06:48 PM -------------------- I am not a Pro Artist. I give out my opinions on a public forum.
I'm trying to be a team player, because I love this Art, and I love teamwork. Don't take everything I say as gospel truth. You shouldn't follow anyone blindly anyway. Always do your own research and checking. |
|
|
|
Feb 10 2008, 02:46 PM
Post
#32
|
|
|
|
This has already been answered in other posts. As far as pressure cookers go, Nationals autoclaves are basically just that. Sterilization isn't achieved because you own the best equipment, it's achieved because you properly prepare, sterilize and store your equipment to a medical standard. The two major types of claves are the Steam/Pressure type and the Gas/Chemical type. Some do and don't have drying cycles, etc. If you have the proper knowledge, you can achieve sterilization the same as these products with a pressure cooker setup and the right materials/procedures, but if you're faking it, or unsure of what you're doing you can do something really bad to the people you're working on. Regardless of what you're doing, or what you're doing it with make sure you have good, self sealing sterilization pouches with the watermarks on them. Defend are ADA approved and great to work with. They have 2 different types of watermarkings on them that appear (or change color) depending on the type of equipment you sterilize with. Steam/Pressure turns the logos brown. Gas/Chemical makes yellow triangles appear on the labels. But just using them (as an example) still isn't enough. You should know what they're made of, what allows these visual things to happen, their construction process, etc. This should be your approach to everything related to sterilization - dont do it unless you research every bit top to bottom. Then you'll know what to do and why.
|
|
|
|
May 29 2008, 08:20 AM
Post
#33
|
|
|
|
i dont know if this is the same everywhere, but when i was studying for my blood borne pathogens test i read that the pressure for sterilization was 17-22 psi and 122 to 130 degrees for at least 35 minutes. and on a note about pressure cookers, there was a specific reason to not use them. autoclaves have a tube that goes from the valve on the lid through a sleeve inside the autoclave that stops about an inch from the bottom. the reason they have this is so you can exhaust your autoclave before you run it. you leave the valve open when you turn you autoclave on and the pressure will push all the contaminated air out the valve. once you have a constant stream of steam for 5 min you close the valve. if you dont exhaust the autoclave the airtight seal can cause pockets of air to not reach temperature and allow bacteria to survive the sterilization process
-------------------- EveRy MaN Is BoRn EqUaL AnD DiEs FrEe
|
|
|
|
Mar 23 2009, 10:42 AM
Post
#34
|
|
|
|
dont get into bad practice dude you should allways get rid of grips tips and needls never reuse them coz if you do it when you doing fake skin of fruite you will find yourself doing it when you tattoo ppl
|
|
|
|
Mar 24 2009, 02:37 PM
Post
#35
|
|
|
|
Hi guys I should be getting a kit soon and because i'm merely a student without alot of money i was planning to get one from ebay...i know you guys think they're trash but i'm learning so i'm just going to throw some money on a machine and some needles and what not. Has anyone bought a machine off ebay? and if so are they decent to work with? And about sterilization...please don't flame me for being ignorant but i just wanted to know, when using disposable tubes and needles, can i re-use them if i'm only planning to practice on fake skin or pig skin or fruits? Sorry if its a moronic question...I know tubes and needles are cheap anyways and its not worth saving couple of dollars and risking infection but with regards to fruit and fake skin can i re-use dispoable or metal tubes without Proper sterilisation. Ofcourse when i do practice on myself or others disposables are one time use only DEFINITELY! Thanks in advance. Dave Also keep in mind; New needles are sharp,used needles will become blunt. Not a good idea to keep practicing with blunt needles. So change needles anyway.They arent expensive and result will be better. -------------------- |
|
|
|
May 5 2009, 12:00 PM
Post
#36
|
|
|
|
Read this with interest......aint got autoclave yet but have ultrasonic....always put my tubes and grips thru pressure cooker after hammering piggy just to learn good practice......Use disposables when going at my leg but still take take the stainless tubes and grips i havent used and stick em thru ultrasonic and pressure cooker....just to make things feel complete may sound daft but helps me keep everything in seqouence and as if im tattoing a complete stranger....start slipping when u practice and i guarentee you will make same mistakes when you are doing it for real
|
|
|
|
May 5 2009, 01:56 PM
Post
#37
|
|
|
|
Only a vacuum type clave will properly sterilise hollow stuff (tips, grips etc).
Anything else is a waste of time as far as doing it properly goes |
|
|
|
Jun 4 2009, 08:53 AM
Post
#38
|
|
|
|
GUYS....If you are tattooing people DO NOT TAKE A RISK WITH A PRESSURE COOKER.
your messing with peoples lives for god sake its dangerous. as for practice skin,just for your own health and safety,use a babys microwave bottle steriliser.no matter what you are doing,when it involves sharps,you gota take extra precautions.Im still lookin for an apprenticeship and i am by no means a pro but please,be careful..... |
|
|
|
Jun 10 2009, 06:30 PM
Post
#39
|
|
|
|
GUYS....If you are tattooing people DO NOT TAKE A RISK WITH A PRESSURE COOKER. your messing with peoples lives for god sake its dangerous. as for practice skin,just for your own health and safety,use a babys microwave bottle steriliser.no matter what you are doing,when it involves sharps,you gota take extra precautions.Im still lookin for an apprenticeship and i am by no means a pro but please,be careful..... right! here in the stated the department of health does not reconize pressure cookers as a proper was of sterilization -------------------- Screw The Rent! Get A Tattoo!
GetInked.com AIM: shortdoggitc Yahoo Messenger: badboytat2s My Ebay Store Disposable tips, needles, tubes, DVD's, PS2 Games listed Visit My Site www.myspace.com/alkqnthug |
|
|
|
Jun 17 2009, 07:01 AM
Post
#40
|
|
|
|
Ok I have been mostly reading and reading and reading some more but, I have a question for anyone of whom can answer this for me. First, I have on there way both an autoclave and an ultrasonic machine. (one can never be too careful I believe). When I was practicing as a cosmetologist we used a chemical called Quaternary Ammonium Compounds (Quats) as a part of our sanitation regimine. The following is some information about Quats: Quats Are The Best Choice: They Provide Safe and Effective One-Step Cleaning and Disinfecting Quaternary Ammonium Chlorides or “quats” as they are commonly known are based upon the active ingredient benzalkonium chloride. These quaternary salt compounds can be formulated with a variety of ingredients to provide a safe and effective neutral pH, disinfectant-cleaner without damaging floor finishes or sensitive floor surfaces. In addition, quats are economical and extremely effective odor control agents when used according to label directions. Quats are effective in destroying a broad spectrum of harmful microorganisms. They are effective in killing the following microorganisms while cleaning the surfaces upon which they reside – all in one simple step. 1. Gram negative and gram positive bacteria like salmonella typhi, staphylococcus aureus, streptococcus epidermidis and pseudomonas aeruginosa, 2. viruses like HIV-1, Herpes simplex 1 and 2 3. Antibiotic resistant strains of bacteria including methicillin resistant staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). 4. and fungi like trichophyton interdigitale (athlete’s foot). information obtained from: http://www.coastwidelabs.com/Technical%20A.../quatbleach.htm I know this speaks of surface and floor cleaning but, those things come in contact with the same and or simular bacteria and virus pathogens etc... as any item that has come in contact with the human body and air. Does anyone know if I could use it in the ultrasonic machine as the first step of equiptment sterilization? Quats is also non corrosive so you can also soak misc, items in a solution fo extended periods of time without it damaging them. I plan on using this on my surfaces (counters, trays, floors, sinks, and restroom facilities) as I know it is OSHA approved. If anyone has any additional information or opinions I would openly welcome any given. thank-x bunches Personally I would be worried about using this with metal, and wouldn't do it (we all know about bleach mixing with ammonia cleaners). From what I've read chemical sterilization shouldn't be used with metals as it degrades the metal and releases noxious gasses. |
|
|
|
Jul 15 2009, 11:24 AM
Post
#41
|
|
|
|
R you retarded? they are called disposable for a reason!
|
|
|
|
![]() ![]() |
| Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 22nd March 2010 - 12:09 AM |