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Power Suply For Rotary???????
flatline27529
post Feb 5 2010, 07:30 PM
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Hello fellow artist's, tattooist, and scratcher's!!!!!!!LOL

Just ordered a stealth rotary, and noticed on other posts that some of the power supplies like the 300, ect.. had problems with these type of machines. What is a good type of power supply???? Right now it sounds to me like any plain old power supply that is "basic", and just puts out voltage w/o all of the fancy prancy "BS", would be ideal.

Any suggestions????

Thanks for you time.
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Stoneface
post Feb 5 2010, 11:23 PM
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So far that's my understanding as well but I havn't bought one yet. I heard elsewhere that the swash-drive types need a lab type but who-knows.... There's a running thread on rotarys but I don't think that's been covered in it. Diablos and JohnnyChaos may wander by.... (i'm kinda drunk and visiting with Ralph right now so ...)
Later wink.gif


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JohnnyChaos
post Feb 6 2010, 02:04 AM
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Problem with the EMS 300 is that rotaries don't draw enough current from it, so it goes in to standby and turns its self off.
I use a CX-2 which is fine with Stigma machines & the Stealth smile.gif Any other basic power supply will work tho.


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flatline27529
post Feb 6 2010, 02:02 PM
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Awesome info. thanks for the reply guys.I should be set then. totally curious to see how this thing feels!
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Fabio M.
post Feb 6 2010, 03:56 PM
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QUOTE (JohnnyChaos @ Feb 6 2010, 11:04 AM) *
Problem with the EMS 300 is that rotaries don't draw enough current from it, so it goes in to standby and turns its self off.
I use a CX-2 which is fine with Stigma machines & the Stealth smile.gif Any other basic power supply will work tho.


are you sure that is the problem? i read the ems reads duty 99%, thinks it's an error and switches off. makes sense, as a rotary works in a different way..
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Stoneface
post Feb 6 2010, 06:18 PM
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Here's a piece that's directed at the Swash but I believe it may be relevant. Also a word or two that may help Flatline.
http://www.swashdrive.com.au/FAQ/FAQ1.htm
Peace.


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JohnnyChaos
post Feb 7 2010, 05:26 AM
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QUOTE (Fabio M. @ Feb 6 2010, 11:56 PM) *
are you sure that is the problem? i read the ems reads duty 99%, thinks it's an error and switches off. makes sense, as a rotary works in a different way..


I read that's what caused it, but never tried it. I exchanged my EMS before I got my stigma machine. But looking at that swashdrive FAQ it sounds like you're maybe right.

I know the duty goes all over the place on my CX2 when I'm using a rotary! lol


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flatline27529
post Feb 7 2010, 07:15 PM
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QUOTE (Stoneface @ Feb 6 2010, 09:18 PM) *
Here's a piece that's directed at the Swash but I believe it may be relevant. Also a word or two that may help Flatline.
http://www.swashdrive.com.au/FAQ/FAQ1.htm
Peace.


I appreciate you going out of your way to look that up! That is cool as hell. Got it "book marked", and will refer to it again as soon as it arrives. Thanks again man!
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Stoneface
post Feb 7 2010, 08:39 PM
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Not a problem dude...... You guys are the ones spending the cash... biggrin.gif .... Along with Diablos and Johnny you're the new addition to my Guennie pig collection...lol...JK... lemme know how it pans out. I just bought another coil liner from Bubba but I swear one-a-these days I'll hide egnough scrill from the wife to get me one. smile.gif
Peace.


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MORTAGON
post Feb 23 2010, 03:32 AM
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Any DC power supply and any usual DC adapter can be used. The coil machines need much power than the rotaries (well, I had once an UK rotary with 1A consumption at 12V, I still have it as attraction).
In general 100 or 200mA, at maximum 12V this is a maximum of about 2,5W which is enough low to not make the motor overheat for hours.
Anyway try for yourself for example 30 minutes at low voltage first, then another 30 at bigger speed etc. They are enough expensive and can serve surprices.

Cheerz!


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bonsairock
post Feb 23 2010, 05:04 AM
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You're right about The Swashdrives not liking the EMS 300. I have one of the Chinese clones and it does the same thing.
It will run it for a few seconds then switch off. I'm sure the Swashdrive site talks about this and even offers a solution ( adding a resistor)
I've used mine with several different basic supplies and they all seem to work OK.
I've tried several Lab Supplies and they all work pretty well.
2 Dial ( course / fine ) supplies are best if the supply is capable of higher voltages ( 30 to 50VDC )
The one I have now is switchable for 0 to 12VDC 0 to 25VDC and 0 to 50VDC and also has a 10 turn Voltage dial
I use the 0 - 12VDC setting ( 12volts is the recommended maximum voltage ) and find it very easy to dial in the sweet spot without the need for micrometer fingers.
Other thing you'll find with Lab supplies is that they are very stable, have excellent heat dispersion and are super reliable.
I've heard people say they are to heavy but if you use them in a studio, weight should not be a problem.
As with anything, you can get something that will do the job or something that will do the job really well.


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