Machine set-up, what gives! |
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 Nov 22 2007, 08:52 PM
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#41
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QUOTE i recently picked up an eikon ems200 and truthfully it sits and collects dust most the time I'll put that sucker to some good use if you ever want to unload it  . I'm gonna buy one ASAP, but scraping up $300 is a big deal right now. It took me 2 months to save up $200 for new machine parts.  Does anyone know if the Cyclone works as good as the EMS200 as far as readings go? I don't care what the case is made out of or what name is on it as long as it works accurately. -------------------- An it harm none,
Do what ye will. Ink is for life, don't make it a scar! "In any attempt to learn things, a systematic method of study is required... In any case of trying to prove things, accurate measurements must be made. A world without measurements would be a world of chaos" Bill Baker. |
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Nov 25 2007, 07:28 AM
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#42
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Evryone that has compared them say the readings are right on .The cyclone case seems a bit cheap...
Yeah it works! -------------------- Whatever dick weed!
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Apr 29 2008, 12:41 AM
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#43
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Man it is nice to hear someone thinks HD sound nice and soft. QUOTE (PanFuckingterA @ Apr 25 2007, 04:43 AM)  I got both of mine (Liner And Shader) running out of a huck spaulding power supply and those baby purrrrrrr i kkep my liner at 15 and when i put color or black in i keep the shader between 13-15 but when i do my grey wash i turn that thing down to about 4-10 where it has a slow purring... But for me i do what my dad told me tune it untill it sounds like a harley idling(Pretty much nice and soft).. But he try to tell and show me the dime and nickle trick but didn't really care so i tune it by ear.... |
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May 8 2008, 06:46 AM
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#44
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Ok this seems like a dumb question to me after reading through this topic!
This is all new to me, and I feel like a complete idiot when it comes to figuring out whats wrong with my machine when it stops. Why am I getting corrosion under the coils? I keep cleaning it off to get it going again. I need a serious course to teach me about my machine I guess. |
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May 9 2008, 04:41 AM
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#45
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Do you have any pdf's containing info
on machine setup etc? If not, let me know, I may be able to help. As for the corrosion, don't know, but it may have something to do with the atmosphere where you store your equipment. Is it dry? moist? humid? Someone will come along soon with a bit of knowledge in this area. -------------------- "Giger, you see more than we domesticated primates."
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May 9 2008, 12:14 PM
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#46
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jeez matt.... still taking credit for the pdf's i gave you
 hahahahaha clean the corrosion off again and trow some nail polish over the area..... -------------------- ][\][ (( )) ][\/][ //=\\ ][)).... says:
hahaha sifffffff im pure sex ☆ My Name Is Andrew ☆ *insert sadness here* ♥ Tattooing Is Life ♥ says: PURE BUM SEX! ☆ My Name Is Andrew ☆ *insert sadness here* ♥ Tattooing Is Life ♥ says: HHAHAHAAAHAHAHAHA ][\][ (( )) ][\/][ //=\\ ][)).... says: rofl |
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May 22 2008, 10:12 PM
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#47
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QUOTE (Andrew @ May 10 2008, 06:14 AM) jeez matt.... still taking credit for the pdf's i gave you hahahahaha clean the corrosion off again and trow some nail polish over the area..... nail polish, good idea, after doing mods to mine I used spray paint and that was a pain in the arse having to tape up the area to avoid overspray. next time I will use nail polish. hey what colour do you use LOL. |
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May 23 2008, 02:17 PM
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#48
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i thought a liner has small air gap and faster, a shader has larger air gap and much slower, i have my micky sharps lucky 7 hard hitting for packing color. ?????????????????????????
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May 23 2008, 03:01 PM
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#49
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QUOTE (fudder30 @ May 24 2008, 08:17 AM) i thought a liner has small air gap and faster, a shader has larger air gap and much slower, i have my micky sharps lucky 7 hard hitting for packing color. ????????????????????????? To change the speed you need to change the capacitors and maybe the springs, go to the most requested section in the pinned section and read up, all the info is here on the forum. good luck. once you change the caps (if your springs are ok) then check the gap between the coils and A bar, then retune. If you do some reading you should have a better understanding and then you can carryout the work required to adjust the speed. regards Sportster This post has been edited by SPORTSTER: May 23 2008, 03:02 PM |
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May 26 2008, 01:54 PM
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#50
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QUOTE (InnervisionsTattoo @ Sep 18 2007, 01:08 PM) The guage IS cheaper from spaulding, and, its a piece of trash, i have both of them, you get what you pay for... As to Danny being a "character", I'll certainly agree with that, I've been on "status" with him for about 4 years now....But when it comes to machine building and tuning he has more of a wealth of knowledge than any of us would ever be able to comprehend...He has honestly forgotten more than any of us will ever learn... He told me to run my fusions at 10.5v 4 the shader, n 8.5 4 my liner but they sound like raped apes...Ive tattooed 10yrs but am just begining with pro machines...any tips on theses fusions besides buy more information...just ordered godoy books waqs told thats the be all end all 4 machines |
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Jun 27 2008, 08:05 AM
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#51
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did you say you upped the voltage to lower the speed? Turn down the volts man....a good shader should run in between 95-105...at around 7 volts. This post has been edited by Jimmy Awful: Jun 27 2008, 08:07 AM -------------------- www.myspace.com/arabjesus
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Jul 3 2008, 08:22 PM
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#52
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remember Eikon is not a religion. I dont even look at my meter, its all about smoothness, and going the speed of your hand. You have to remember that those readings are just one mans opinion.-J
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Jul 3 2008, 09:33 PM
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#53
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I hate the ones with meters. If I try to LOOK at how my machine is running, it just doesn't run right. Listen and feel, and don't be hindered by numbers. Everyone else at the shop I work at has meters. When one of the shops apprentices ask me what I run my shader at, I just say "Dunno".
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Jul 4 2008, 07:35 PM
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#54
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QUOTE (Joshua Carlton @ Jul 3 2008, 08:22 PM) remember Eikon is not a religion. I dont even look at my meter, its all about smoothness, and going the speed of your hand. You have to remember that those readings are just one mans opinion.-J Very interesting and logical way of looking at it, well put Joshua !! This post has been edited by Merc35: Jul 4 2008, 07:40 PM |
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Aug 16 2008, 12:52 PM
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#55
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-------------------- |
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Feb 19 2009, 11:34 PM
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#56
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QUOTE (SirTralala @ Sep 10 2007, 08:45 PM) I have a guitar, and if you use an electrical guitar-tuner it will sound horrible if you play it. but if i use my ears for tuning... perfect sound  lol |
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Apr 25 2009, 06:26 AM
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#57
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to be honest with you all i have a single dial power supply and no read outs what so ever. all i keep seeing on here is whats your readings when it comes to tuning. i have never used a lcd readout supply and probably never will. it put too many variables into the equation. just hook it up and try it . see how you like it. one of my friends uses a liner set up on all of his machines. same springs and everything.
-------------------- Just hold still it will only hurt for a week or so.......
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Dec 16 2009, 05:07 AM
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#58
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I agree that a seasoned tattoo artist should know his equipment well enough to be able to tune on instinct and therefore have no need of a PS with any readouts. I hope to be there one day myself, however I am finding it impossible to get an apprenticeship at the present time so I have resorted to machine building and experimenting with them. The metered readout proves to be very handy for getting them to run within most tattoo artist's specs. The readings are invaluable when testing set-ups on machine builds and for actually "seeing" what changing parts and adjustments do to the machine. So if one is a seasoned tattoo artist I would agree that an Eikon PS wouldn't do much and "old school" is the way to go but everyone is different and some people like technical information. I have noticed that when selling machines a lot of artists want to know the specs on them and with the info from the Eikon, I have proof.
-------------------- An it harm none,
Do what ye will. Ink is for life, don't make it a scar! "In any attempt to learn things, a systematic method of study is required... In any case of trying to prove things, accurate measurements must be made. A world without measurements would be a world of chaos" Bill Baker. |
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 Dec 16 2009, 07:56 AM
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#59
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QUOTE (KVAPORS @ Apr 25 2009, 06:26 AM) to be honest with you all i have a single dial power supply and no read outs what so ever. all i keep seeing on here is whats your readings when it comes to tuning. i have never used a lcd readout supply and probably never will. it put too many variables into the equation. just hook it up and try it . see how you like it. one of my friends uses a liner set up on all of his machines. same springs and everything. Amen.....I have never owned a digital read out power supply. I tune my machines so that they run for me. Whats important is how runs for you. They are your machines why should it matter if they run good for anybody else. |
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Dec 16 2009, 08:29 PM
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#60
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Yes there are some variables in tuneing a machine but the chararistics always remain the same...this is where "new" guys or the uniformed lose it.
First you must decide is it a liner, color or a shader, is it going to run a big grouping or small. The variables are do you prefer a long stroke or medium, but a liner should run within a specific as a color or a shader should. Springs will determine speed , stroke will determine force You see machines are "TUNED" for the work they are going to perform NOT the artist...yea,yea some will contend its to "their wristspeed" but the fact remains if its tuned improperly I don't care what your supposed "wristspeed"is or "its for me" tuneing is, it will not perform as desired. It all comes to time behind a machine and playing with the correct variables to determine if you like a long stroke vs a medium stroke machine or not, and so on and so on. |
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