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Machine set-up, what gives!
el tatuaje
post Sep 15 2007, 05:56 AM
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mark101 and jabardstown hit like ol skool'rs, i pretty much use that same technique, your thumb tells you how hard or soft your machine is hitting the skin
and your ear will tell you how fast you want your machine to run. that's some pretty high voltage, my machines usually run from 4.5v - 6v for my liners depending
on which one i'm using at the time, my shaders run from 6v-8v also depending on which ones i'm using and my color packers are between 5v-6.5v.
gotta be able to know your machine and not depend on who ever sends it to you is sending it ready to go even if its a pro sending it to you
everybody tattoo's differently but knowing how to tear down your machine and know the principles of your machines design is a must in this business
they are your tools.

el
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CHOPSY
post Sep 16 2007, 07:39 PM
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Some of my tattooists Micky Sharps Machines sound like chainsaws but they push the clors in beutifully
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eric1972
post Sep 16 2007, 07:50 PM
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QUOTE(ESSEX_GAZ @ Sep 15 2007, 03:38 AM) *
oh man! so are you saying that you cant actually follow a guide to a set way of tuning your machine? this is getting super confusing!!! and i am still having probs taking in the actual difference in tuning between a liner and a shader .the volts higher or lower? the air gap larger or smaller? i keep reading conflicting instruction. HELP!!!

unfortunately gaz there is no 100% accurate tuning rules they're more guidelines then anything else. there are too many variables to be able to use one hard fast rule. different coils,springs.etc.... so it really is what works best for you and the machine you're using. but like jabards said your ear and thumb tell the tale better than anything else and unfortunately that's an experience thing. stuff like this is why an apprenticeship is the best way to go. but since that's not always an option for some you have to start with the standard guidelines and tweek them to fit your style and machines and experiment til you get it right for you.(i know that's not what u wanted to hear but its true unfortunately)
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mark101
post Sep 17 2007, 07:50 AM
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get some pig skin and practise and practise and then retune the machine until it feels right for you
at least that way noones getting cut to ribbons apart from the dead pig
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Guest_ESSEX_GAZ_*
post Sep 17 2007, 08:24 AM
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thanks for the answers guys. it will just take time, ive got plenty of that.
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mik1miller
post Sep 17 2007, 08:42 AM
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i bought a machine from ebay and have just noticed it was from someone on this forum paid just over the £100 mark for it . it wasnt running right i wonder if thats why they sold it but last night i stripped it down re shimmed the coils filled the a bar bolt hole with longer bolt ground it back then surfaced and polished and it runs like a dream and looks good to boot point is i think its the little tweeks that can make all the difference


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InnervisionsTatt...
post Sep 17 2007, 10:37 AM
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You guys really want to know how to tune a machine properly?
Go to http://www.atimemachine.com
Danny Fowler is world renowned for his machine building and turning, you wont find ANYONE that understands and can explain tuning better than he...
You want to learn how to tune your machine properly, you want your questions answered? Order his spring tension guage, this is a MUST for repetitive tuning and getting the same result through every machine and spring/arm bar change, its well worth the $40.00 and whatever shipping is to whereever you are...
That and order his video, you can now order and d/l it from his website. I think its like $10-15 to d/l it (you can save it and burn it to dvd to watch over and over). Watch the video over and over until you get it. Machine tuning can be complicated but its like riding a bike, once you get it down you have a skill for like....

By the way, to you guys that follow my advise and make it big....Remember that you owe me ya bastards....I accept Visa, M/C, Discover and paypal wink.gif
(and if your a hot chick other payment arrangements can be made) LOL
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mark101
post Sep 17 2007, 10:44 AM
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QUOTE(InnervisionsTattoo @ Sep 17 2007, 10:37 AM) *
You guys really want to know how to tune a machine properly?
Go to http://www.atimemachine.com
Danny Fowler is world renowned for his machine building and turning, you wont find ANYONE that understands and can explain tuning better than he...
You want to learn how to tune your machine properly, you want your questions answered? Order his spring tension guage, this is a MUST for repetitive tuning and getting the same result through every machine and spring/arm bar change, its well worth the $40.00 and whatever shipping is to whereever you are...



nah the gauge is cheaper from spaulding

ive spoke to him a few times hes certainly..ummmmmmmmmm

a charector
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mik1miller
post Sep 17 2007, 01:54 PM
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read the articles on the fowler site well informative about machines


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InnervisionsTatt...
post Sep 18 2007, 01:08 PM
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The guage IS cheaper from spaulding, and, its a piece of trash, i have both of them, you get what you pay for...
As to Danny being a "character", I'll certainly agree with that, I've been on "status" with him for about 4 years now....But when it comes to machine building and tuning he has more of a wealth of knowledge than any of us would ever be able to comprehend...He has honestly forgotten more than any of us will ever learn...
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matttatt
post Sep 20 2007, 10:36 AM
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machine set up realy stumped me when i started.

basicaly its trial and error to match you machine speed to your hand speed i found. i started at the nickle dime therory and have since moved on to touch and sound of the machine. i rarely look at my gaps now.

i run a fast timeing spring and a heavy solid rear spring on my liners to give it a hard stroking machine to slam them lines in there first pass. if i run a smaller neddle rig ill throw on extra rubber bands to slow it a bit.

i use my second machine for solid and shading, for somereason it just works for me(most times lol). i have it set up at a medium speed solid color machine but like i said i shade with it and it works ok for me.

my third machine i set up as a light shader and i only use it when i have to. not offten usualy.

i just swaped springs out and used them till they wore out to get a feel for what it was doing.i tryed difrent set ups till i found some that wasnt rooster tailing the skin behind me but wasnt choking when i whiped my line passes out. its all about finding what makes it work best for you and this seems to come with time and practice.

a good understanding of what all the pieces do on the machine will help you to set it up to fit your needs. if you dont understand timing springs you cant adjust the speed of the machine to speed it up or slow it down if you need and ect ect. research aswell as practice.


if any of that makes any sense smile.gif
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mik1miller
post Sep 20 2007, 10:44 AM
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it makes good sense to me im always stripping my gear down and trying different configs recently i ordered a cyclone 360 to see if it helps any


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DrBraun
post Oct 14 2007, 11:11 PM
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QUOTE(mik1miller @ Sep 17 2007, 11:54 PM) *
read the articles on the fowler site well informative about machines


Does Fowler sell to us amateurs?
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mark101
post Oct 15 2007, 06:43 AM
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the euro arm does wink.gif
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Guest_VDinCC_*
post Oct 16 2007, 03:09 PM
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Did you get the cyclone yet?
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mik1miller
post Oct 16 2007, 03:42 PM
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yeah i got the cyclone sort of wished i hadn't build quality is plastic moulded shit but what do you expect nowadays, but it is handy for seeing and tuning running speed accurately in peoples opinion i wonder what the best power sup on the market is i quite like the look of those cat 1 supply's but then looks can kill laugh.gif


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mark101
post Oct 17 2007, 12:18 PM
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QUOTE(mik1miller @ Oct 16 2007, 03:42 PM) *
yeah i got the cyclone sort of wished i hadn't build quality is plastic moulded shit but what do you expect nowadays,



so is the eikon version lol
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Guest_VDinCC_*
post Oct 20 2007, 06:38 PM
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Well on their site it's only a buck and a half...The eikon is around 5 big uns....
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jOE bLOW
post Oct 21 2007, 03:19 AM
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Those power supplies can come in handy. When you make adjustments to your machines you can see what that adjustments effects are on duty cycle, follow through and Hz. So with a little experimentation you will begin to learn what effects what.

As far as tuning goes there are no hard and fast rules. I know of a few top tattooists that all achieve incredible results with radically different set-ups. A consistently running machine is the main thing, stroke length, Hz, coils etc is all preference. So experiment a bit and find out what works best for YOU.


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Guest_bulldog joe_*
post Nov 8 2007, 10:36 AM
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personally i tune by "feel" and "sound"
i recently picked up an eikon ems200 and truthfully
it sits and collects dust most the time every so often if i do a build
especially if its for someone else ill thow it in the meter to get some readings
but i find that for the most part the readings really mean nothing to me ,
ex. some of my machines give wacky readings but push ink in awesome
so case in point- use the method that works best for you
i happen to prefer the "old-skool" way
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