Ink Trails Tattoo Forum: Machine parts and set up - Ink Trails Tattoo Forum

Kutter, on Mar 13 2007, 09:52 PM, said:

I have had this happen as well, and yes I too keep my hair up now always but still it's funny to remember that bizzare little pzztx! noise and then nothing .....
ok so I don't keep it up while practicing on non bio hazrad potentials and it's happened several times ..

I just have one quick question.

I'm looking to buy 3 time machines (liner, shader and color packer). I will be purchasing the flatline liner, G2 brass shader and the G2 aluminum for color packing. I just don't know which one I should buy for a color packer. Liner or shader? I'll be primarily using 7 and 9 mags for color. I would like a long throw with a hard hit so I was thinking getting the liner and just setting the contact point at a nickels width. Am I on the right track?

Thanks.

I was also thinking maybe a shader with a dime width.

a lil tip, just use your shader to pack in color, up the voltage a tad and your good to go, having to change machines to pack in solid colors a pain in the arse, shaders are genraly already running to the right specs, a long stroke slowish but there just softer hitters then a packer, turn the volts up a bit and you have a hard hitting slow running long stroke machine, just what you want for a color packer.

Sweet thanks.

hi guys, im from the UK... just wondered if anyone knew how big a nickel and a dime were in english omney?

HELLVIPER, on Mar 15 2009, 12:22 AM, said:

oh dear ... here we go again! page 5 of this thread young sir ... unless of course you were taking the micheal ...

ps ... can anyone tell me who was giving away free dimes and nickels? i would search but i'm too damned lazy lmao!!

Blackwidow, on Mar 15 2009, 03:02 PM, said:

i wasnt, haha

cheers

a guy from NJ was giving them away a long time ago....essexboy if i remember correctly. he gimme a few coins but i gave em all away already lol

Blackwidow, on Mar 15 2009, 07:02 AM, said:

Hell,cover the postage and i'll send ya a few.

B.M., on Mar 16 2009, 04:00 AM, said:

its fine thanks dude, i got a seller on ebay to send a couple with my order
cheers though

It was Eric1972, before he became Eric1972 .... If you get my drift

Just a quickie (first post by the way, can't believe how much I've learnt since finding this forum). My first machine is a crappy kit one, however it's defo been a good learning aid. I think it's set as a generic machine somewhere between a liner/shader, it seems to have the springs of a shader though. My question is, does anybody have any tips on how I can get it running more like a liner? I've tweaked it a bit, angling the screw back to make it act like a shorter spring. Would adding one of those rubber grommets make it act stiffer than it is? Also have I got the right idea that the gap between top of front coil and bottom of A-bar should be 1-2mm?

Thanks in advance.

I use several machines with wildly different set-ups

a Rollomatic cut back liner, it's a Spaulding Supreme frame with the contact post moved back about an in inch, it has a very short front spring (something like a 19 gauge thickness) and what appears to me to be a piece of strapping iron cut into a spring. It has a Rollo a-bar that is heavily shaved, making it very light (and it has a super annoying looooonnng needle loop post). 8 wrap coils. About a nickel size air gap, and a lil less than a dime on the contact point. and for some reason a 47uf cap.

I just built a Mickey Sharps dial clone, I used 8 1/2 hand wound coils (MY FIRST SET I EVER MADE!) . EIkon springs (both 18) but I cut the front one back quite a bit. I have the contact post moved back,It has about a dime space on the contact point gap, and about a nickel and dimes worth on the air gap. 22uf cap (from Radioshack). I put an EIkon high speed a-bar on it. This machine is my daily liner. In fact I used it for 4 hours straight today.

I have a brass Jonesy that I use to shade (Jonesys are my fav shader) big 10 wrap (er...layer really) coils joined together with a fat iron yoke. Eikon 16 back spring, and 18 front spring. It has a pretty small throw the air gap is just a lil bigger than a dime. Contact point gap is a lil smaller than a nickel. 47uf cap (which was a bitch to find a place to put it) This machine is fast for a shader (zippy) but it works great for shading with a 7 mag

My color packer is a one off frame I made, pretty much the geometry of the Jonesy, but a lil longer. 8 wrap coils, 47uf cap, eikon 16 springs, a long throw with about a nickels air gap. Contact point is a lil bigger than a nickel. It works slow and low, sounds exactly like my electric razor when running.

I have a Forgiven machine, a bulldog frame. I built it as a ghost coil for light work. Eikon 19 front spring, 18 back. 22uf cap. 7 1/2 wrap front coil, rear coil is a bare post (lacquered) very good for 3 liners.........

that's kinda what I use everyday lately, works pretty good for me......I use two rubber bands on every machine, no o-ring on any of them