THE SUPPLY LIST |
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 Apr 9 2007, 02:49 PM
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#1
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So this is the list I gave the Ink-trails guys before they started having at it. I know some of you want to buy kits but they have alot of useless shit and they are missing alot of stuff that you need. This is the complete set up to almost be working in a shop, minus Autoclave. Keep in mind this is for the serious tattoo artist in training this is more then the 200 dollar begginer kit. When I started the owner of the shop told me to save up about 500 hundred dollars then we would go shopping.
It is as follows: Machines - You will want to order at least 2 machines, one for lines and another for shading. Initially you will want machines that are aluminum or steel, as any of the copper or iron machines are going to be too heavy for a beginner. Your hand strength will develop over time, and you can move up in weight once you get used to the equipment. A good machine will be from 125-175. I used Huck Spauldings for years before switching over to other machines. They are built ford tough Power supply - You will only need a small, basic power supply to get started. You can read from some of the posts here to get an idea of what brand. I've been using the International two gauge singel dial power supplie for 7 years now never had a problem it is made for tattooing. Foot Pedal and Cord - Round foot switch with phono plug. Don't even bother with the scissor action foot pedal they are crappy and break easily. The round footpedals are heavy and can be pressed from any angle. Standard spring clip cord Needles and Tubes - All are single-use, disposable Needles: 3 Round Liners 5 Round Liners 5 Magnum Shaders 7 Magnum Shaders Make sure to get pre-made, pre-sterilized on the bar needles 25 of each should keep you busy for a while Tubes: 4-8 Round Tubes (5/8") 4-5 Flat Tubes (1") 6-7 Flat Tubes (1") For the liners I prefer a 5-8 diameter tube it’s big enough for me not to get a cramp and small enough to get good control. Make sure you get 1 inch diameter for the shaders so it’s comfortable to hold for long periods of time. Rubber Nipples - Typically 100 pack Inks - Depending on your degree of commitment, you can choose a sampler set, or just individual colors. Moms, starbrite and millennium color all perform well. Kuri-sumi for black and graywash Ink Caps - Size #9 and #12 ink caps Transfer paper - 8.5 x 11? transfer paper Sharps container - NEVER throw needles in the trash. Supplies you can purchase locally: Powder free latex gloves from Costco A&D ointment or Vaseline 16oz jar Two spray bottles Rubber bands Plastic wrap Sandwich bags non zipper Scissors Scotch tape Rubbing alcohol Dial liquid soap large refill bottle Paper or Styrofoam cups Bleach (for area cleanup) Paper towels softer the better for wiping. Rolling chair or stool with adjustable height Massage table with vinyl non-porous work top that can be easily cleaned. Chair with vinly arm rest for client to be worked on. Optional stuff: Roll around storage cart with drawers for keeping supplies in one place. Rolling salon station with table top and drawers let you move your work station with you to the client. Dry lock pads for bandages and work are. plastic cord cover I purchase exclusivly from www.technicaltattoosupply.com -------------------- |
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Apr 9 2007, 02:59 PM
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#2
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As always great info, Thanks!
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Apr 9 2007, 07:39 PM
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#3
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Trust what Mark say's about the round foot switch it helps alot cause if you don't get one it's like your foots traying to stomp a mouse and he keeps getting away and it suck... But if you have the money theres this new thing out the superior has called the V-Trol. where it's a red beam that bounces off your hand to turn it on and then when you want to turn it off you turn it to the side and it goes off... Just a thought but i have my 2nd thought's about that cause what if your shading that beam is suppose to refelt off your hand that machine goes all over the place so that thing's going to cut in and out and not even get you the right shading. If you know what i mean hopefully you do...
-------------------- a Quote from the master...
PAIN,,, Pain for you. Fun for me |
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Apr 9 2007, 07:42 PM
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#4
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Yeah I have a scissor pedal, and I have to push really hard to get it to run consistant, it will cut out sometimes. In investing in a better pedal real soon.
-------------------- Theres a toll to get to Heaven, but on the road to Hell theres none.
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May 5 2007, 10:33 PM
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#5
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Here are some topics I think are helpful from past discussions. I’m posting in to get them to the top I’ve seen these asked again and again so instead of responding, here they are up top to reference.
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May 6 2007, 12:14 AM
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#6
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is the dial liquid soap gonna be used the same as green soap, and diluted with water into a spray...also, whats the proper dilution, and do i need to sterilize spray bottles, and ink caps? to be safe, i tried sterilizing a bunch of ink caps in a pot of boiling water,... am i wasting my time? should i continue to do this and do the same for spray bottles or any other bottles for greywash mixtures, etc...?
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May 6 2007, 01:24 AM
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#7
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Dial is like green soap just not as harsh. Dial soap naturally has anti-bacterial agents in it. I mix a 10-1 water to soap, with two table spoons alcohol to make sure it stays fresh. You don't need to sterilize you caps the ink has alcohol in it so it does it itself. Just use clean new caps every time.
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May 23 2007, 06:19 PM
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#8
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this is awesome.
can it get a sticky? ;D -------------------- If I was a woman, i'd be so rich and full of diseases.
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May 23 2007, 06:23 PM
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#9
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so do you mix alittle alcohol with the green soap also to keep it fresh like the dial soap?
-------------------- I'll kick a turd outta ya and make it whistle like a bullet
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May 23 2007, 06:31 PM
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#10
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no need to add alcohol to the green soap mix
-------------------- My first thought was, he lied in every word,That hoary cripple
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May 23 2007, 11:52 PM
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#11
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green soap doens't need alchohol. dial does.
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May 28 2007, 08:37 AM
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#12
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This is awesome.
I asked a similar question about my needle supplies (if it was adequate or what I needed to bring it up to a good starters list) on another forum & all I got was people telling me to get an apprenticeship!! Thanks for all the info, now I'm off to read through the back topics!! -------------------- "In this truck is a man whose latent genius, if unleashed, would rock the nation, whose dynamic energy would overpower those around him. Better let him sleep?"
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Jun 25 2007, 10:05 AM
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#13
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Mark I was in the process of ordering needles from tachnical supply..
and I noticed there are a few diffrent types of each. like the 7mags have either bullet or taper tips.. which is better and what are the diffrence? -------------------- No forgiveness for my sins, I preffer punishment
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Jun 25 2007, 10:48 AM
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#14
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I haven't really found too much of a difference. I just make sure they are stainless tattoo needles when I buy them and not bug pins but I don't think technical sells bug pins. I think I bought about 1000 tapered on my last order. Get both and see what you like. I've found when I make my needles that if I want a mag for shading I solder away from the tip and it makes them more springy and good for featheriong. If I want a mag for pounding in color I solder closer to the tip and it makes the needles stiffer.
The best needles I've used are the Mickey Sharpz needles I can't get those because you have to have proof you have been in buisness for 5 years at a shop. -------------------- |
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Jun 25 2007, 10:56 AM
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#15
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I want to get some eikon or proneedle but you also have to have documentation.
-------------------- www.freewebs.com/churchtattoo
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Jun 25 2007, 11:00 AM
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#16
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Eikon needles or just Eikon supplies in general
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Jul 26 2007, 09:05 PM
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#17
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Hey thanks for posting this!
I was wondering what kinda of paper you guys are using for transferring the stencils onto the skin? Is it something i need to pickup specific from a tattoo supply place or can i find it around anywhere? thanks, GP |
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Jul 26 2007, 09:15 PM
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#18
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Im pretty sure everyone uses spirit transfer paper, you can find almost any tattoo supply shop online even ebay and pick some up, I bought the longer ones, but i'd say go for the 8x7 having the longer length doesnt do you much good, but it was only like... 3 dollars more so what the hell
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Aug 6 2007, 10:57 AM
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#19
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Hello I am obviously new here to the forum and tattooing for that matter. I have several tattoos and am a decent artist. I have always wanted to try and tattoo but i am not going to go the apprentice way just yet. Family and good job are important at the moment. I just wanted to know what you guys think of this gun as a beginning gun. I want to start on practice skin, pork, me whatever will help. I have no idea what to get as far as gear I know nothing so your help is appreciated.
Huck Spaulding Gun 
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Aug 8 2007, 05:43 PM
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#20
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I found the answer. Sorry guys and gals.
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