This site is no substitute for a formal apprenticeship
This site is no substitute for a formal apprenticeshipThis site is not a substitute for a professional apprenticeship with a licensed tattoo studio. Nor is this site a definitive source for learning the art or trade of tattooing. An apprenticeship is the ONLY universally accepted way to learn proper safety practices and sound technique.
While we welcome members of all levels, we STRONGLY advocate staying away from skin until you've received formal training from someone who works in the field. Hell, even hair stylists must complete over a year of courses, pass a state health board exam, and apprentice under a professional studio before earning a chair.
The trade of tattooing has a rich history and traditions that have been passed down from generation to generation. If you respect the art, please show your respects by learning the right way.
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Liner & Shader Setup?, how are they set different |
 Oct 8 2008, 12:21 PM
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#1
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A lot of people seem to set there machines different for shading and lining but I have no clue how and why. If anyone can give me any info on this that would be great. Thanks
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Oct 8 2008, 12:26 PM
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#2
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Im am still a noob when it comes to tattooing but I have about the thickness of a dime from the contact screw to the contact point(when arm is down). Other than that im not sure.
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Oct 8 2008, 01:02 PM
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#3
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Guys all the info you are seeking is here on the forum.. most of which can be found using the search feature...
get reading.. 
-------------------- Nosferatu1812@yahoo.com
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Oct 8 2008, 01:11 PM
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#4
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Oct 8 2008, 02:47 PM
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#5
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yeah Noz is right, there s a fuckin wealth of info here on this already
 . usually liner goes faster- different things contribute to this, weight of armature bar (lighter), spring tension and thickness, -the more tension, the slower. liner usually has a softer backspring and a tad thicker front one for better impact. also length of springs- shorter front spring has less span to go thus goes faster - ideally weak backspring and thicker front one for liner, set on a short stroke, workin length of backspring also affects if you can adjust.. some armature bars are filed at the edges, i m not sure if this is to increase working length of backspring . wildangel on ebay has some a bars that are half carved out, very light. i tried one of them for my liner its awesome. someobody posted a link somewhere in the forum. shader would have softer springs, ex .016" for both front and back, goes a bit slower, bit of a longer stroke.. most use 8 wrap for liner 10 for shader but i got a 10 for one of my liners and it runs awesome at 4- 6 volts. even frame geometry, the higher the rear contact place i think the more space for a longer stroke . you dont need to adjust all these things, but knowing their purpose may help. correct me anyone if i m wrong.. 
-------------------- remember to always be yourself! unless you suck.
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Oct 8 2008, 04:23 PM
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#6
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Look in the stickied topics there are a few in there that cover in depth for setup.
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Oct 8 2008, 09:23 PM
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#7
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dont worry about it. the kit you got was probably fine tuned by a stellar performing chinese kid gettin paid a dime an hour. just figure out which ones which and your set.
-------------------- Love it or Leave it...
check my portfolio @ http://www.myspace.com/sioneproduktions |
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 Oct 9 2008, 01:41 AM
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#8
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hey guys second post, love the site... I have a couple of 'brand name' machines at home that were tuned by a professional when i bought them, as i dont know how to,
I went out and bought a 3pack of those chinese machines so i can do alittle practice in pullin them apart and putting them back together (dont worry i wont tattoo with em...lol) just want to learn 'how they work' You guys talk about a dime and a quarterl?? for spaces, as im an aussie i dont have these lol..... does anyone have a more precise approximation for this (cm or mm?) i know this is not how to tune your machine, but a general rule of thumb...... and to get something right ??? long fast throw for liner, short slower throw for packer/shader? any help would be great, ive tried the search for this info but cant find it ....cheers This post has been edited by OzzieMate: Oct 9 2008, 01:42 AM -------------------- "Got a problem with me? Solve it!! Think im trippin? Tie my shoes!! Cant stand me? Sit down!! Cant face me? Turn the FUCK AROUND!!!"
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Oct 9 2008, 04:46 AM
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#9
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QUOTE (OzzieMate @ Oct 9 2008, 02:41 AM)  hey guys second post, love the site... I have a couple of 'brand name' machines at home that were tuned by a professional when i bought them, as i dont know how to, I went out and bought a 3pack of those chinese machines so i can do alittle practice in pullin them apart and putting them back together (dont worry i wont tattoo with em...lol) just want to learn 'how they work' You guys talk about a dime and a quarterl?? for spaces, as im an aussie i dont have these lol..... does anyone have a more precise approximation for this (cm or mm?) i know this is not how to tune your machine, but a general rule of thumb...... and to get something right ??? long fast throw for liner, short slower throw for packer/shader? any help would be great, ive tried the search for this info but cant find it ....cheers i had once found it on wikipedia, its 1.35mm for a dime, 1.95mm nickel. yeah, packer is slowest so as not to make hamburgers out of the skin. i actually use the frame of one of those china machines, and its one of my best liners. have replaced the a bar, springs, coils and its super fine. just dont buy needles, inks, soaps, coils/ capasitors... things like that - from china -------------------- remember to always be yourself! unless you suck.
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Oct 9 2008, 04:51 AM
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#10
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yer i wouldnt trust that shit either, i get it all over here from a professional supplyer (he doesnt normally sell to non professional, but ive known him a while)
but they are good to practice setups, adjusting, learning peices etc ... (edit) oh and just to check that space is from the front spring to the contact screw when the abar is pushed onto the coils? if so why cant you just go from the abar to the coils ?? (in terms of spacing guidlines?) This post has been edited by OzzieMate: Oct 9 2008, 04:54 AM -------------------- "Got a problem with me? Solve it!! Think im trippin? Tie my shoes!! Cant stand me? Sit down!! Cant face me? Turn the FUCK AROUND!!!"
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Oct 9 2008, 06:49 AM
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#11
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yeah the stuff from china sucks. my machine broke, The ink sucks too. I still use the power supply. Bought a new machine for 35 bucks seems ok for now. Can't wait to get a better one. The needles I get are from china is that a bad thing? Does good companys check the quailty of the needles unlike china or something? I can't afford high end equipment as of now but I kinda wanna get better before I spend that much money even though I would prob learn faster with better equipment.
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Oct 9 2008, 06:55 AM
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#12
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QUOTE (dead bird singing @ Oct 9 2008, 05:46 AM) yeah, packer is slowest so as not to make hamburgers out of the skin. thats not actually true a liner can burger up the skin a damn sight quicker than a clor machine think about 2 things needle and pigment This post has been edited by mark101: Oct 9 2008, 06:56 AM |
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Oct 9 2008, 10:08 AM
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#13
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QUOTE (mark101 @ Oct 9 2008, 07:55 AM) thats not actually true a liner can burger up the skin a damn sight quicker than a clor machine think about 2 things needle and pigment thanks for correcting me- i trust you know way more about machines than i do. hope you dont mind if i ask somethin -i always thought main reason was so as not to traumatise skin, since there more needles at work, areas are also overlapped during the fill, and more time is spent on same spot so it kinda made sense to me that that was the reason why colour packers are tuned slower. what is the reason then? thanks
-------------------- remember to always be yourself! unless you suck.
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Oct 9 2008, 10:14 AM
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#14
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lol re read my ansa then think about it if you cant get it from that pm me
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Oct 9 2008, 10:18 AM
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#15
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im not being an ass i think you need to work somethings for yurself to make it stickin ya head
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Oct 9 2008, 10:29 AM
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#16
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QUOTE (mark101 @ Oct 9 2008, 11:18 AM) im not being an ass i think you need to work somethings for yurself to make it stickin ya head lol, nah thats cool, but you really made me scratch my head cant think about anythin else now, already came back to see if youd replied to that lol catch ya later
-------------------- remember to always be yourself! unless you suck.
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Oct 9 2008, 10:44 AM
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#17
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QUOTE (dead bird singing @ Oct 9 2008, 11:29 AM) lol, nah thats cool, but you really made me scratch my head cant think about anythin else now, already came back to see if youd replied to that lol catch ya later lol thats the plan and believe me it will hit ya like a train when you get it |
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Oct 9 2008, 02:44 PM
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#18
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QUOTE (OzzieMate @ Oct 9 2008, 05:51 AM) yer i wouldnt trust that shit either, i get it all over here from a professional supplyer (he doesnt normally sell to non professional, but ive known him a while) but they are good to practice setups, adjusting, learning peices etc ... (edit) oh and just to check that space is from the front spring to the contact screw when the abar is pushed onto the coils? if so why cant you just go from the abar to the coils ?? (in terms of spacing guidlines?) You cant go from the coils to the a-bar because youre contact spring will bend slightly from the pressure of youre back spring. So adjust youre point gap by pushing youre a-bar down and setting it dime for liner and nickle for shader then fine tune from there. The gap from youre front coil to the bottom of youre a-bar is the air gap and you will have to set that up also. That adjustment depends on different factors. |
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Oct 10 2008, 06:16 AM
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#19
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this is gonna be a HELL NEWBIE QUESTION...lol.... but you know how when you over adjust the 'airgap' and the coils wont pull down the abar?
you press the button but nothing happens (what causes this?) is it because of the larger gap, the magnetic pull caused by the coils isnt enough to pull down the abar from such a distance ? and if so theoretically (sp?) if you were to turn the power supply up to a higher voltage it should eventually get enough "pull" unless the airgap was too much... {example - you have the P/S set to 6 volts with an airgap of 1.8mm for packer, change the airgap to 2.2mm (for fun) and it wont pull at 6volts, but if you change the volts to around 10V, it should pull?not that youd wont this size gap but just to help me figure out the techstuff of how it all works...} (((Q - the higher the voltage on the power supply, the stronger magnitise the coils have to pull down the abar??))) hope i didnt confuse anyone...i even had to read this a few times before posting lol:D  
-------------------- "Got a problem with me? Solve it!! Think im trippin? Tie my shoes!! Cant stand me? Sit down!! Cant face me? Turn the FUCK AROUND!!!"
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Oct 10 2008, 06:23 AM
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#20
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QUOTE (savi @ Oct 8 2008, 10:23 PM) dont worry about it. the kit you got was probably fine tuned by a stellar performing chinese kid gettin paid a dime an hour. just figure out which ones which and your set. wow...that really helped the OP 
This post has been edited by scratchy: Oct 10 2008, 06:23 AM |
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